Day 14 - Confusion

Today the waves were really small, but clean again. I went to bed really late and when my alarm went off, I just shut it down. The pain of being tired and not wanting to do something was intense. Anyway, knowing that I don't want to think about having to surf in the afternoon, I rallied. To my surprise, Jason actually did to, I figured he was out of it today, since the only thing that had me in motion was my streak. As we were suiting up, Jason made the comment, "I don't even have to look at my wetsuit, I just pick it up and I know it isn't mine".

So we both really struggled to get moving and headed down the hill. Jay had the fun gun and I decided to roll with my longboard this morning. I also decided to surf without booties for the first time this streak. I really like the feeling a lot better. Booties bug. Anyway, as we are about to get in the water Jason looks over at me and says, "This is a large!", referring to the wetsuit. He was wearing my old suit! So, I guess what we can take from this that Jay cannot tell his wetsuit by just picking it up. Or, by putting it on. Or, by walking down to beach in it. But, he can tell that it is not his because mine has as hole in the knee and he felt the water rush in.

We paddled out late, but we still got our share of waves. I was on my 10'0" and having a blast. I saw Jason, attempt a full rail cutback that looked like he was going complete with ease, he was a little overzealous on the 7'2", It doesn't like that much. He bogged down and dug in. I had a couple of attempts to walk the nose, I managed to do it only once partially. But, I had forgotten how fun that board is. That happens every time. In the middle of the session, Jay looks over at me and tells me that my wetsuit is unzipped - confusion. I had felt some water going in but, I hadn't been inundated yet.

It is fun riding longboards. My final wave some clown tried to go right on a left that I was going on and I had to push him out of the wave. I never understand that crap. Just too much testosterone. Here is a picture of me getting snaked last summer and the guy actually said that it was his wave. And then all of his friends made fun of him, because it was obvious that he snaked me. The funniest thing about it is there was some kid on the beach taking pictures and one of his friends (the guy that everyone was making fun of) emailed them to me - Funny.