Day 26 – Monday Fun Day is Better than Sunday

This one is also going to be short. The waves were very good this morning. The string waves we have been getting lately have been impressive. We scored some uncrowded punchy peaky little barrels this morning, which included a few head high waves, but cylinders all around given the low tide and offshore winds. Jay has been having problems with his back so he rode the fun gun. I was on the compressor and I caught a number of good waves. I had the first wave this streak where I completed 3 solid frontside turns without a hitch. Really laid into each one, it really felt good to be controlled and on top of these turns. I drove into work today so I stayed out extra long. I picked a good day to drive in! I’m really fired up right now. I have already exchanged texts with Jay, reconfirming how good it was out there.