Session 22 (my lucky number - that is why I'm portosurfer22)
The title refers to a comment that Jason made on the way to the beach.
Had an amazing second session! Fish everywhere, glassy, sunny, warm, with decent waves. I had a great time out there. I saw my neighbor Chris out - he's a cool guy. Also saw a guy who surfs really well, his name is Nick, he's from Santa Cruz, I've been seeing him out there for years. Actually, I also saw him this morning as well. While I was out there, I could not help but think how fortunate I really am. Living at the beach, everything within reach and days like today are just so special, no worries about the upcoming work week, I just spent the entire day enjoying life. I love it.
The tide was a little high, but I was able to redeem myself a little from the earlier session as I had a number of waves that I completed very controlled and fast turns on. I surfed pretty well tonight. It was about chest high and most of the waves that I caught were lefts. We managed to time it right as the low tide walls waned in favor of mid tide shoulders. As I mentioned before there were fish out there, so it was only a matter of time before the predators showed up. Dolphins and a sea lion were not very far behind. The the fish were splashing and causing the dolphins to go into a frenzy. I think that they go after the fish in the waves, maybe because the can accelerate and the fish get confused (I've watched the discover channel). Anyway, one other thing that the dolphins do is splash the water really hard with their tails. Maybe this stuns the fish, I don't know. It is pretty amazing to share the space with those guys.
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