Day 29 – Apriluary

This is going to be a short post as will the posts for the next few days - I’m headed out of town for the weekend. Hopefully, I’ll post something from my phone over the weekend. Today was a little weird, as the waves were generated primarily from very short period wind swell. For some reason, and I’m not sure why, this translated into some pretty dumpy peaks. It was necessary to utilize the initial speed boost for a quick turn or a cutback. I had a couple of pretty good waves, both rights and lefts, but by the end of the session I was hindered by very numb feet. The water is January cold right now which is pretty uncharacteristic of April, but it is a direct result of all of the upwelling caused by the wind over the past few days. Even colder though was the sand, which absorbed the unusually cold air temperature (you could see your breath) resembling snow in appearance and feel (it was wind blown smooth again today). Walking on the asphalt after receiving frostbite from the sand was very painful requiring a very slow and calculated walk. I don’t know why, but when your feet get that cold it truly feels like the ground is tearing them apart and your mind begins to visualize the little pebble under your heel causing irreparable damage. Thinking about it now, I still feel a chill in my feet, even though that was 4 hours ago. The wind blew so hard over the past 36 hours that it actually started to pile up mini dunes wherever there is a fixed object and the beach now has a noticeable incline with parking lot serving as a backstop. Maybe it is good for the waves, I don’t know, I’m always an optimist with regard to change. Forecast is predicting that it is going to be some time before we get waves again (I checked it because I'm going out of town), so I guess it was a really good run while it lasted. I’m still looking forward to day 29…