As Good As It Gets. Today was silly, the boys were frothing, the waves were insane. El Porto is one of the few places that can turn wind swell into barrels. The combination of a deep water canyon, consistent early morning offshore winds and bathymetry that is pronounced allow this transformation to happen.
Jay got out there earlier than I did so I got the report from the trenches when he got out. He said that it was good and that the guy that we saw in Indo was out there. Big John (because he's a little guy) was amped. Jay had warned me that he would be. He got a left barrel in front of me that was silly. I mean comic book silly, directly from the pages of my 8th grade science class notebook (I got banished to the back tables so I really worked on my wave drawings). He pulled high and tight into a vicious cylinder, locked in pig dog drawing a line that was perfect. Still, I was sure that there was no way he'd come out, he did. That set the tempo. The wind swell/ground swell combo was so consistent that the boys barely had a moment for Saturday morning stink eye. Waves everywhere and they were the real deal, boards fluttering, bodies bouncing, arms flailing and a looks of stoke on everyone's face.
So I went up to John and let him know that I witnessed the left and he was stoked. He said, "I've had like 12 of those! I haven't turned yet, there are some kegs out here!" And the dude can turn, but he was clearly only hunting for barrels. The best quote was as follows, "I haven't surfed waves this good since Bali and that was 8 months ago. The only other time was that west when I went to the Ranch, but it was crowded, so this is better." I agree with him. That session today was epic. El Porto does not get epic much, but it provides surf about 360 days a year, so I cannot complain.
My session? Barrels, turns, a pitch or two, a guillotine and some wicked cutbacks. I was stoked out there. I rode the Double D and I'm glad that I had - I was able to use its speedometer a number of times. You see, I have a few boards with speedometers, a result of a slightly misplaced fin, which causes it to hum when a certain velocity is reached. I had it humming a lot today! I had gone out on Friday night, so I was a little slow to start, but nothing a little adrenaline couldn't overcome. I'm still stoked. The amazing thing is how much this stoke translates into regular life. Who needs Prozac? Just surf every day.
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