Day 23 - Good Friday and I mean GOOD!

Don't jinx my session!  Oh wait, it worked in my favor this time.  This is going to be short post as I have to get back to my editing bay!  I have a lot to learn in order to get ramped up on my Mac.  In my last post I wrote that the waves would probably be terrible today given the prospect for rain and wind, which was a certainty according to everyone who knows such things.  When I woke up I went to my usual window to check it.  It didn't look as bad as I thought it would!  Jason made the comment that he would sit this one out and he was definitely serious (more opposite jinx).  I was slow to get moving but as I did, he could not handle the possibility that I would tell him about MY session later in the day, so reluctantly he went along with the preparations.  We walked down the hill and It initially looked walled but there is a hole just in front of the 40th street lifeguard tower. The deep spot was allowing a left to consistently break as we approached the water's edge.  After some argument about whether or not this was really the case (I'm an optimist and he's a pessimist when it comes to waves), Jason reluctantly agreed with me that there was some potential out there.  The waves were overhead on the sets and packing a solid punch.  As we were paddling out, I don't know what we were talking about, but Jason suddenly was at a loss for words as he zeroed in on something over my shoulder and then convulsed into an uncontrollable release of emotion that resembled the cross between a scream an a yell.  Alarmed, I looked in the direction that caused his reaction and there was a guy locked into a perfect barrel! He shot out and then proceeded to demolish the lip with a very controlled backhand snap.  Few things out in the water can cause this kind of reaction, but seeing a guy in a barrel just forces it out of you.  Seeing a shark might be another (I've only seen one that could hurt me and I think I started yelling).  That set the tone for the session.  I started off with a floater and then a barrage of snaps.  I surfed for about 2 1/2 hours today and I really felt good out there.  Yet another example of why it is necessary to get up and go surfing without trying to figure it all out beforehand.  I would never have gone out there today if it wasn't already a forgone conclusion.  I cannot wait to get back out there tomorrow, which is a problem because it probably will not be good now!