It looks to be one of the greatest movies of all time and I'm only 10 minutes in. A must see for sure. Not sure if it got immortalized with a statue, but it should have. The movie actually was pretty funny for a surfer to watch as it highlighted an argosy of surf stereotypes. The swell picked up over night from the south. It had the classic long left lines pushing up the beach, but there was a little morning sickness on it. Today the high tide was our friend, helping the fickle walls to back off just enough to make the waves peel up the beach resulting in some very long weavable lefts. I caught 4 or 5 decent ones and then off to the grind. Another short session, maybe I'll get a longer one tomorrow.
No comments:
Post a Comment