Day 25 – Where’s my egg?

This post is going to be very short. I got on it pretty early today with Jason as it is Easter Sunday and I figured the crowd would get thick quick. I’ll admit it; I was very tired out there after a number of good and long sessions over the previous days and I did not surf very well. However, I think with all of the surfing I’m starting to get my first step back. The first step is how fast you are able to come out of the gate – the pop up into the first pump. This allows you a lot more range when it comes to taking off late. You want to be a strong paddler to increase you range with regards to getting in early, but a good first step can really help with taking of late. Translation: You can catch more waves and make it around more sections. It is pretty key for surfing a beach break all the time. Quick session today, but the weather was amazing, the waves were very good. The crowd got holiday-heavy very quick and that’s when I called it, I could use the rest and I know that Mondays are always a better bet.