Day 19 - 5 in 48

Five surf sessions in 48 hours... I'm tired but, I think I'm turning the corner. Icing my back seems to be working OK and while my paddle is not full strength, I'm not thinking about it much anymore. This morning however, I was stiff. Had a fairly short session as I made the earlier bus. It was small and glassy with only a few spots working (where there are sand bars). I got out there and I saw John, he's the guy that me and Jason saw in Indonesia on one of our trips. He's a very good surfer. Anyway, he and I traded waves for a while (remember it's Monday, so the crew is slow to trickle out there). He definitely got the best waves. It was about waist to stomach high, really feathery, but with perfect shape. My back was a little stiff, so it inhibited my quite a bit, which was a little bit of a downer after the session I had last night. That's OK though, I still got some fun ones. The highlight of the session was a dolphin nearly clipped John as he paddled for a wave! It was so close, it might have even jumped over his leg! I'm not sure. I asked him if he saw it and he said no. This was no baby either. Anyway, I told him about it and he said...

Important Update: I just had 45 minutes of my life time-burgled* away.

Back to our regularly scheduled program:

he is not a big fan of dolphins as one time he was hit by one and another broke his board. He said it was a big day and that the dolphin just got mixed up or something. These stories are somewhat of an urban legend as I've been hearing them for some time. Actually, another guy told me a similar story - he had his board broken by a dolphin. The most I've ever had is a flipper of a dolphin slap my foot as he went underneath me. I guess it's possible, I've just never seen it.

I caught some fun waves and got out early because of my back and my general physical lethargy. When I got back, Jay showed up shortly after me. It turns out, he cannot stand to miss out! That's good.


*The Time Burglar - a person who corners you in your office or some other location where there is no easy exit and proceeds to link extended monologues together, sometimes initiating a fight or flight mechanism that is very similar to claustrophobia. This why it is always important to have some cyanide pills handy. Very painful.