Day 36 - Weaven

Today was a transition day as I got back on my short board. I caught a few good waves and it felt really good to get the weave* going again. Jason was still on the fun gun and I think he had a couple of decent waves, but as always, we were just really were glad that we got out there today. The weather was gray, and it was not quite glassy with a little bit of side/off shore wind from the south. The tide was high again this morning so the waves strained to break on the outside, instead they rolled slowly to crash on the inside. A couple of waves actually did break on the outside sandbar and they looked rideable, but it seemed like a very unlikely scenario to be in the right spot when a set came. So we surfed the waves that crashed on the inside instead. As we were getting out of the water we saw a long boarder catch a very good left, he took off in no man’s land (the middle section), resulting in a long ride through to the inside. I mind-surfed along with him and his lack of turns frustrated my mental image. This made me feel like I was missing out on a session, walking slowly away from the water, I really wanted to go back out there and snag a few more. The waves were probably waist to chest high today as they had picked up a little bit since yesterday. I had a fairly short session after waking up late, which has been the theme this week.

*The weave was first recognized in the drainage ditch in front of Orange High school on a skateboard - Jay was the first person that I saw perform the weave. We realized that by weaving the skateboard back and forth in the transition that we could actually generate speed by transferring energy to the wheels through only body movements (not pushing off with our feet). The weave was later validated by Martin Potter as we saw him at uppers one day weaving perfectly on a small little right, accelerating faster than anyone that I had ever seen. Most things are fuzzy to me but there are a few instances where I have an eidetic memory, that wave of Martin Potter at Trestles is one of these.