Day 13 - Unlucky 13

Session 15
This morning I got out there right at dawn. It was a really cold morning with fairly strong offshore winds. However, the swell had dropped off dramatically since yesterday and was only about knee to waist high. The offshores however kept the shape fairly good even though the tide was very low and going lower. Jason pointed out to me that the longboard kid was wearing trunks and a neoprene top, which is insane because I was cold in a 4/3 wetsuit and booties. This is a kid that I've seen grow up over the last few years as up until this year he was basically a midget and now it's probably about 6 feet tall he's a really good paddler and it looks like he rides a fairly long board and catches everything. It was a good session for me to cut short as my back is still stiff and my arms are still tired so maybe I will get some rest today. I went to hot yoga last night again and it was brutal, but I'm glad I went. My biggest problem is that back then because I sit hunched forward all day and my back simply does not go that way. So as I work the flexibility into my back, it just stays sore. This makes surfing a pretty difficult task, however to ensure longevity I have to do it. So to summarize this session was not a very good one but I'm looking forward to tomorrow, which will be two weeks!