Day 5 – My 267 written words (the 1000 word summary below is better though)

With all the wind the water has become even more frigid and ice cream headaches were the norm out there. Maybe I should feel pretty privileged to be able to surf arguably the most popular surf spot in Los Angeles (as measured by crowdedness) all by myself! Unfortunately it was not "getting it good" this morning. I took out my 6'8" Indo Board in lieu of my 7'2" fun gun this morning for two reasons. One, I think that my paddling is getting better so I'm able to get into waves a little bit easier now and two, I needed to be able to duck dive as there were a lot of waves and a lot of water moving out there. Wow! It was cold out there. I ended up catching five waves again, surpassing my needed three waves by two! And I know, it is a little bit unbelievable but I did manage to get a left that I unloaded on front side. That's all I need to get me through the day and look forward to surfing tomorrow. I cannot believe that I had fun out there! I felt like a hard-core New England surfer (or a Seattle one -- like my friend Tony was), but I still had a good time and I can't wait for tomorrow! The streak is still too new to get broken right now and today was a novelty, I don't know how I would react at day 40 or 50 at this point. We'll see...