Day 11 - Fun but running out of Gas

Session 13
Today I woke up around 7 AM and went straight to hot yoga. Wow! I am very stiff and tired. Hot yoga in the mornings is very hard as your body is not naturally limber from moving around all day. This morning was particularly hard, I'm not sure why probably just because I am fairly worn out from surfing everyday. Anyway, it is much needed and I will continue to go. My goal is to go four times this week, but today counts as one. It seems to work the best when you go consecutively so I'm going to try to go tomorrow night as well. However, just like with the surf streak there is a point where it almost seems like it's doing your body harm instead of helping it, and I'm there now. My back is very stiff and my hamstrings are also very tight. Being stiff and tired makes it a little bit difficult to surf as it is hard to be very quick.

Today me and Jason got out in the water at about 10:30 AM, which was probably a pretty good time to get out there as the crowd was thinning and the wind was not yet a factor. We saw my downstairs neighbor Cliff and he got a really good wave right in front of us. The tide was on its way up which caused it to be a little bit of bowly as there was some size out there. So what happens is the wave does not feather and break slowly, it piles up and breaks all at once after it hits a shallow spot on the sandbar. There are some pretty deep holes out there so the waves would back off pretty quickly which required an immediate cutback off the whitewater to keep the velocity up. I had a couple really good cutbacks today. However, I really wasn't surfing up to par as my arms continue to be very tired and my back is very stiff. Jason got a couple of good ones on the fun gun and worked them all away to inside. He surfed without a leash and I saw them take one of the bigger waves of the day right on the head. That will get you in shape! I think it is session 5 or six for him and day 8 of sobriety. Stoked on that.

We had lunch at North End, we all got sandwiches. Pretty good.

This little video doesn't show you anything but at least it shows you how the weather was. It has been cloudy all day, with an occasional beam of sun breaking through. The water still pretty cold.