Day 15 - Road to recovery

Today was really fun! I got some really good waves, particularly some of the lefts that caught, I was able to do full cut backs on. I was on it at dawn, as I thought that the waves were going to be really good since last night the swell had picked up quite a bit. I'm not really sure what happened to the swell, as it was overhead last night, but it was still fun and it was probably about waist to chest high out there. While I'm certainly not 100%, and my back was feeling pretty stiff, I'm starting to get used to surfing everyday, I think I'm starting to recover a little. I guess three months of couch surfing doesn't really translate very well into real surfing. In the end, it is pretty hard to be fairly inactive for an extended period of time and then do something every day, such as surfing. However, I remember last time that I did this, it took about a month for my body to accept that I was just going to surf every day, a habit, kind of like brushing your teeth everyday or take a shower everyday (well maybe not everyday, but most days). I think I'm going to go to hot yoga again tonight and Friday, which should help with my stiffness, eventually. Being stiff, is certainly slowing me down a little bit as I had a couple of backhand waves where I was clearly a step is too slow. In other words, I would've made the waves and been able to complete a few turns, making it to the shoulder, which requires a quicker take-off and more drive down the line.

There is a kid out there who I've watched grow up surfing, I think his name is Ken, but he was in a contest last week and so I asked him how he did and he said that he took second in the men's category and sixth in the juniors category which is very good for NSSA contest. I have to admit I was pretty surprised. He is a very good surfer, so I shouldn't be, but those are very good results.

When I got back to my apartment, I noticed that Jason had gone surfing as well, but he did not initially get up when I did. What he did, was that he went out there and caught three waves and then ran back up, thus technically completing a session. I'm always amazed at how far three waves will go throughout your day and how easy it is to accomplish this. However, it is very difficult to do when you are tired and under the covers because in the end, what is the difference between three waves and no waves? Well, it is a lot if you ask me as the rest of my day always goes a lot better if I have gotten a surf session - no matter how brief it is. I'll ask him tonight if he had a similar experience.