Sorry for biting your ear off. I was wrong, the swell was legit, it was not overhyped and I scored some serious bombs right out front of my pad. Come on El Nino, let’s do this. We had about the worst winter that I can remember following about the worst summer that I can remember. Something has got to give.
Day 128 - Oops I did it again
Friday, I did not think that it was very big so I headed out there with my standard equipment. WRONG! I lost my board 2x and had enough. I went and got a leash and a new board that could handle the size. I was getting sick, but I made the dash in record time anyway.
Day 129 - Bombing
I the biggest waves out of the south that I have caught in Manhattan Beach. Crazy, crazy good times. The current was like a treadmill, and nobody could handle it. I know there was a reason for surfing 128 days in a row!!! My paddle was good, I was able to catch some bombs! I made some sections that were screaming. I did some of the biggest most critical turns of my life out there. For some reason you feel a lot more comfortable at home. I would not have gone for it that much elsewhere.
Day 130 - Fun and the Gang
Surfed O-side with my brother, Tim, Jason and Tom. Pretty fun there too. The swell was dying however and it was a lot smaller than Saturday. Still fun though, I was cool to surf with the crew. I was really beat up from being sick and the marathon week that I had, capped by the Saturday Session.
Day 131 - Still some south in the water. I was glad to be home. I just like my sand bar, that's it. I know the crowd, they know me. It is home. Some snappy turns out there today.
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