Surfed all afternoon. For some reason they left a pretty good chunk of beach allocated to surfers today. The weather hot and the water warm, the beach was packed with inlanders crowding out the surfers. So there were only a few people that live around here and beginners in the water where they were allowing surfers. It was pretty funny, because the swim part of the beach was packed and the surf part was empty. I trunked it for a solid 2 hours there was quite a bit more swell in the water than I had expected. Pretty fun. The only time that I lost my board all day, it was right on the surf/swim line and it pretty much ran over about 10 kids that were just on the wrong side. Nobody, was hurt, but still was pretty funny. The lifeguard handed me my board. Those dudes have their hands full. You know the drivers on the road that do not have a clue? Yeah, you know the ones and you just shake your head? OK, well at least they have driven before... In this case, you put thousands of people into the water that don't have to pass a test first, you mix in waves and you have a recipe for disaster. All day the life guards are running up and down the beach keeping people safe. I don't think I could do it.
Got some fun waves this afternoon, a couple of really good rights. Had it to myself until some clown started crowding me for no reason. I don't get it, I never will. People are generally idiots and then you have exceptions. I'll probably be a grumpy old man. Good times anyway.
Side note:
Lutrell said I look like Nick Nolte on his DUI arrest picture... Funny, I posted that earlier this week.
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