Clean wind swell at about ankle to knee high prevailed today. It called for a long board a 10 footer at that. I had fun still, that is just how surfing is. Ankle high to triple over head, I have a smile on my face. When it's bigger, that's when I put my serious look on.
The crew this morning had to double take as I have not been on the mal (aussie for long board) for a long time. Good times are had on the journey... The destination is always waiting.
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