Clean and fun this morning. Mandatory Monday - worked out again not much crowd and fun little peaks. I didn't surf all that well, I think because I was tired from the day before (surfed for about 3 1/2 hours). I also have a hole on my foot, which started originally from the reef in Tavi, and it seems to be bothering me every time I stand up. Anyway, I had trouble getting my board on rail this morning even though waves were pretty good. Chest high sets, perfect glass, not much power.
How do I get out from under the steel and glass... I wish that I could, even though I like my situation about as much as somebody can, living and working in the jungle. I just want to be at the beach right now. That's it.
1 day to tie, 2 to beat.
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