Day 123 - Crowded but bigger.

I was on my game. It was fun for sure out there. Wind swell peaks at about stomach high. No leash and risking it today, but I did not lose my board once. I think I'm just getting used to grabbing on to it if I'm going down. But, a side effect of this is that I'm doing things more under control and it is cutting down on my stupid mistakes. The biggest plus is not having that thing throw down a hog tie on the set waves, which murphy says always happens. The crowd was a little more amped this morning, I wasn't having it, if I hadn't seen somebody before, I gave them no respect. I guess, it is just necessary when surfing in the Jungle. It is so dangerous out there when it is that crowded and when the crowd averages about 1 summer of surf experience. Panic is everywhere boards get jettisoned in the most indescribable places. Anyway, still fun. I wish that I was still out there.