In between goofing around and having a good time, sometimes I like to surf. I thought yesterday was small! Today, I was riding, well let's just call them waves for lack of a better descriptor, they were micro! I did manage to catch a bombing knee high wave and with all the pressure to perform, well I fell off the side of my 10 footer. It was glassy and the water was warm, I think a SUP would have been the call out there today. This guy would have been stoked: TheLittleGuy. Anyway, still a good time, still a good way to start my day.
120 / 30 = 4 is that true? I've been surfing every day for 4 months? Wow! The thing about it is that life flies by so fast, but these last 4 months have gone by exceeding slow as they have been packed so full of experiences and such a good time. You should try it sometime, you know doing what makes you happy...
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