I some how ended up in the middle of a big group of soft top surf schoolers. I just surfed as I always do, I wasn't mean, but I did push a couple of people over who were obliviously dropping in on me. Nobody could surf out there. Which brings up the "epicenter theory". Is it he quality of waves or the level of talent that brings about better surfers? This is a discussion that happens a lot. I think it is more related to the epicenter. In other words, the more good surfers there are around, the more likely you will be good. Yes, I guess, waves are a requirement, but then why do the best surfers in the world come from Florida? It makes no sense. Bad waves + good surfers = the best surfers. Pushing the limits in slop, is tough, but it makes it so much easier when you actually do surf good waves. The point of this is that there were no good surfers out there today, so I probably did not improve...
Knee high and clean wind swell. I surfed my short board.
She just said "tripindicular"... The stuff that is on TV during the weekends. I don't know how it ended up on this channel, but I'm into it now. It also fits with the theme as there were certainly a bunch of Val Surfers out there today.
I may go surf some more slop now... Not feeling like working right now. I work a lot, not always for my day job though.
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