Day 46 – Thanks Warren!

My good buddy Warren, who is also my lifelong physical therapist, designed a program for me to strengthen my core. He did this a while back, but I still have the workout (he does these stick drawings of what I’m supposed to do, utilizing the ball and the foam roll). I have been doing this everyday along with my other workouts. The surprising thing is that it is not only helping my back to feel better, but I’m reaching new levels in yoga as well. It is not that I care to be a standout yogi; it is just that it is much more enjoyable when there is less pain. Anyway, it is allowing me to make more progress than I had previously thought possible for such a short period of time practicing. My back is feeling good! Multiple surf trips have been hampered by my bad back and it has been real trouble for the last 10 years. The first one that I remember where it was a real problem was Punta Abreojos with Tim, probably around 1999. The first session, the waves were good, but I had to get out of the water after only 3 waves. Then we got his Jeep stuck in the sand… So many stories. Anyway, I had an MRI once and they said that I had a herniated disk and that there was some degeneration. So, I need core strength to make up for the difference and fortunately it is right now. Incidentally, Warren had given me 4 exercises before I went on that trip to Abreojos and it got me back in the water then too! I did them on the beach before and after every session.

This morning the waves were good and my back felt perfect. I got out there, but I was too amped. Jason, had already surfed and he had told me that it was good. My first 5 or so waves, I really struggled. I couldn’t find my groove after riding the long board and the fun gun. And then it happened, right in front of a good surfer that I know from Santa Cruz, his name is Nick. I took off on a chest high left, slowed things down a little, got in tune with the wave, picking up speed I got out ahead of the wave so I laid that squirrely board on rail. My cutback was so strong, I had strength to burn as I turned the compressor so sharp yet so efficiently that I was heading back up the face at the whitewash that I had just left behind and I crushed it, throwing my board off the whitewater with authority, finding myself in the right spot again. What an amazing feeling, that’s how you are supposed to do it. Nick gave me hoot and then came up and said hello. From there I was letting go of snaps, floaters, cutbacks, everything. I felt very good physically even though I was worn from all the working out.