Day 49 - Fun but not so fun

Session 55

There was a lot of swell in the water, and it was pretty shifty due to the proximity of the secondary wind swell. I got lucky out there. My second wave, a doubled up left came right to me. I knew it was going to be meaty so I paddled for the shoulder to get to the edge to try and avoid getting closed out. I dropped in with no expectations, but it threw and I pulled into the slot, suddenly I was looking at the lip crashing in front of me just past the nose of my board. I was in there! A fairly quick in and out, but I got pretty deep and I came out dry. I don't know the last time I had a legitimate barrel, one where you pull in and shoot out dry like that. Maybe a few months? I don't remember right now, but I know it has been a while. I closed it out with a floater off the whitewater and a hoot. Remember the post where I said don't claim it? Well, I did not make a physical gesture, but my hoot probably resulted in the same effect. I was stoked! I shouldn't have, but I couldn't hold back the emotion. I had the discussion with Jay after that, he said, "you won't see another one of those out here, so don't even bother looking." He was right, but I was still looking. Other than that I had a closeout floater/off the lip on a wave that was overhead - about as big as I can go on something like that. I pulled it, which was another highlight of the session. In general though I was not surfing that well on waves that were a little frustrating to deal with. I'm so looking forward to getting on the road. We locked in our lodging today. We just need to get a ride to the beach from the airport and we are set. I'm extremely busy at work and I'm behind - back to it.