Mrs. Nature? I’m not sure if you are married, so I’ll go with Ms. Nature: Please do not do this to me. I’m going on the surf trip of a lifetime and the super long range models are not showing any life at all!!! Why would you play such a joke on me? I have stamina for miles, lungs for days and determination for weeks, which I’m sure, are all great for snorkeling in Fiji, but that is not the point! Yeah, I get it, I haven’t recycled enough, my carbon footprint is arguably bigger than a house, but I don’t go out of my way to upset your ways. If I had more motivation, I would, I could strap myself to the front of whatever environment destroying machine that the capitalistic greedy evil exploiters are employing to accumulate useless illusionary amenities at the cost of the health of your children. Ok, so I’m not a tree hugger, but I'm conscientious! Please mother, will you spin some magic in the south Tasman Sea for me? I’m just asking nicely, I will not change ways if you don’t, I won’t start pouring my motor oil down the storm drains, I’m not going to start using Styrofoam again and I won’t start making fun of hybrid owners, it is not like that. So just to be clear this is by no means a threat. It is just a kind request, I am just asking nicely for you to work your magic. Do you remember that time that we went to Indo, in ’04? You were there, pumping swell at us, calming the winds for us, and making the right conditions for a trip of a lifetime. It was you, me, Jason, Ed, all the Brazilians and that one Auzzie on the Huey? I know you like to joke around and you got us! We were smoking and drinking everyday and you kept pumping swell at us. I was like, “Mama, that’s funny, you held me down for 15 seconds!” We had such a great time, do you remember? I do! I miss those times with you Ms. Nature, I do miss them indeed. Well, if I don’t hear back from you, take care ok? I’m sure there will be other times when you are not so busy refreezing the southern seas or getting ready to stir up hurricanes in the eastern Atlantic and maybe we can get together for some coffee or something.
Yours truly,
Mike
Today was small again, the water is warming up. Jay was noticeably perturbed with the conditions, but I was in Tavarua again. I had one wave where I was able to generate plenty of speed, lay on my rail and bring it around for a bank off the whitewater. I’m feeling pretty sharp, pretty loose and very ready. I’m ready to head out today!
Today is my peak day of training. I’ve been stepping it back up again. Yesterday I swam 3000 yards; today I’m going to do 3500 yards and then I’ll begin to back down and start to rest. I’m holding my breath every lap for as long as possible on one of the lengths so my cardio is tip-top. I’ve been working out as well, the strength is good. Yoga every other day has me feeling lose. My weight is down to about 175 or so – that’s a good weight for me. The Nica trip was great training! I mean I cannot express enough how stoked I am. There are no words, there is no way to transfer it to paper and it simply is not quantifiable. I’m a kid, I have grom-stoke frothing from every pore. Living it up and loving every second.
Dropping:
Floating:
Tucking:
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