It was really good today. The only problem is that it was so consistent once you caught a wave it was a fight to get back out. Anyway, I surfed for a long time on this Good Friday like last year. I got thumped over and over for sure. I was thrown to the bottom multiple times, most of which included me holding onto my board as a result of a duck dive. But the payoff was a barrel fest. I got tons of barrels but only came out of 2. So fun, so good.
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