Friday, April 2, 2010
Yesterday was 14/14
It was out of control. I was the only one out. I made it outside somehow and then got stuck in a rip that sent me out to sea. I was able to paddle out of that back into the line up to immediately get cleaned up by a bomb set. Some how I got 3 waves in about 45 minutes, but it was not easy. Glad I did it though.
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