it still needs to be said. Yeah we know you dinged up your foot. Yeah, I'm sure you felt it, I'm sure it hurt. Dude, don't be a drama queen! You don't need to limp down the beach and then pull massive turn after massive turn and then limp back onto the sand to demonstrate how heroic you are. "I don't care if my foot falls off I'm still surfing, haha (smile)" ? You are not pulling some dude out of a trench in Afghanistan and saving his life, you are surfing. One time I put duct tape over my stitches on my stomach so that I could surf, I think I should've gotten a medal for that one, especially because I wasn't getting paid to surf…
Maybe people like these "overcoming the odds" stories, but I'm over it. Parko jacked his ankle last year and it cost him the world title, I didn't hear shit out of him. Maybe he was saying it, but I just didn't hear him making excuses. Kelly, you won the f'ing contest dude...
By-the-way, I had a good surf this morning. Wind swell, so fun.
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