In the morning, it was big. I worked from home. I got out there and got some serious bombs - so fun. Some big turns, some closeouts - I love it.
Went to surf the Jetty in the afternoon with Ben. Holy shit, it was good. That wave is as good as any wave in SoCal when it is on, I mean ANY. Bomb outside barrel section, into open face that holds for 150 yards, what is better than that? Crazy, we timed it right and scored, then it got crowded around 3pm - I went back to work.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment