Veterans Day!!! I'm thankful for the Vets.
I couldn't figure out why my break wasn't inundated with High Schoolers... Veterans Day. Surfed really well at the start and then it became really foggy and I could not figure out where to sit. I could not see the beach at all, so I could not see the wave and I could not get in the proper position. I was really happy to be surfing better though in the beginning. I ended up getting out of the water and I was about 400 yards down the beach!!! I guess, now that I think about it I was only catching rights and I would just paddle straight back out, but the walk home was pretty long.
My back is sore from really cranking some turns in the beginning.
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