Thursday, November 26, 2009
Friday, November 20, 2009
Day 28 - Session 33
Was pretty walled, but I hooked into some rifles. Race course turns, lots of speed, offshore winds so surfing under the lip.
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Day 27 - Sessions 31 & 32
In the morning, it was big. I worked from home. I got out there and got some serious bombs - so fun. Some big turns, some closeouts - I love it.
Went to surf the Jetty in the afternoon with Ben. Holy shit, it was good. That wave is as good as any wave in SoCal when it is on, I mean ANY. Bomb outside barrel section, into open face that holds for 150 yards, what is better than that? Crazy, we timed it right and scored, then it got crowded around 3pm - I went back to work.
Went to surf the Jetty in the afternoon with Ben. Holy shit, it was good. That wave is as good as any wave in SoCal when it is on, I mean ANY. Bomb outside barrel section, into open face that holds for 150 yards, what is better than that? Crazy, we timed it right and scored, then it got crowded around 3pm - I went back to work.
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
Day 26 - Session 30
Some small waves today, but I turned it on with the cutty. I got some mojo back - Pretty stoked on that.
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
No surf yesterday or today.
Traveling - San Fran today.
Swell on the way though, I'm looking forward to it.
Monday, November 16, 2009
The competition and the intel...
Watch this video. This is the guy who wins all the NSSA contests. He's going through his boards and telling us what he's riding and why.
And here is a similar segment that I did:
And here is a similar segment that I did:
Day 23 - Session 29
Video taped in the afternoon with my brother and jason. Saw tim out in the water, but didn't talk to him. It was a really nice day, glassy and small. Fun though.
Saturday, November 14, 2009
Day 22 - Session 27 & 28
Surfed really well in the morning on the mushy 45th street bar and then Jay and I video taped in the afternoon. It was really bad in the afternoon.
Friday, November 13, 2009
Thursday, November 12, 2009
Day 20 - Sessions 24 & 25
Surfed 2x today. Surfed really well in the arvo. Saw Jensen out there (competition in our surf league). He's not that good, which gave me confidence.
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
Day 19 - Session 23 - Veterans Day!
Veterans Day!!! I'm thankful for the Vets.
I couldn't figure out why my break wasn't inundated with High Schoolers... Veterans Day. Surfed really well at the start and then it became really foggy and I could not figure out where to sit. I could not see the beach at all, so I could not see the wave and I could not get in the proper position. I was really happy to be surfing better though in the beginning. I ended up getting out of the water and I was about 400 yards down the beach!!! I guess, now that I think about it I was only catching rights and I would just paddle straight back out, but the walk home was pretty long.
My back is sore from really cranking some turns in the beginning.
I couldn't figure out why my break wasn't inundated with High Schoolers... Veterans Day. Surfed really well at the start and then it became really foggy and I could not figure out where to sit. I could not see the beach at all, so I could not see the wave and I could not get in the proper position. I was really happy to be surfing better though in the beginning. I ended up getting out of the water and I was about 400 yards down the beach!!! I guess, now that I think about it I was only catching rights and I would just paddle straight back out, but the walk home was pretty long.
My back is sore from really cranking some turns in the beginning.
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
Day 18 - Session 22
Waves weren't all that great and it was crowded. Probably because there had been waves and the stories had filtered out about the sessions that everyone had. To be honest, I struggled out there, not feeling that sharp - frustrated a bit.
Monday, November 9, 2009
Day 17 - Took the day off
Was tired and bummed about surfing poorly at HB. Needed a day. I have to ramp up my head for January! 5 contests! My goal is 5 finals in January. No time to think, I'll have to be sharp. It will be fun, I cannot wait.
Sunday, November 8, 2009
Day 16 - Session 21 - Bummed
Surfed poorly in my heat in very good HB conditions. It was an NSSA - last second entry. I got equal 7th. Jay got 3rd, he won his 1st heat, he caught the right waves and surfed them well. In the final, nobody is a match for Taco in those waves. The guy dominates. We'll get there though. I think by the end of this hectic season in both the NSSA and the WSA, we'll be getting into the finals at every contest.
Saturday, November 7, 2009
Friday, November 6, 2009
Day 14 - sessions 17 & 18
Worked from home, surfed twice, the waves were on the rise. I saw a guy from one of those contests out there. I was on the burnout, I have not gotten used to it yet.
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
Tuesday, November 3, 2009
Day 11 - Session 14
Had a good one in the fog. Had a wave that would have been an 8 for sure!!! That's what I need in the final to take down Yari! Ha Ha. I had two really solid snaps on my backhand where my tail got loose and then I finished it with a backside reverse. I've only done about 15 of those in my life, so it is pretty special. Would have scored high for sure. I need two of those in the final. Could be big this weekend in Pismo. I hope so! That is where I think I have an advantage. Big and gnarly is the edge for sure. I hope so. I need the points!
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Day 10 - Double Sesh - 12 & 13
Session 13 was awful. Worked from home and went out at lunch. Waves were bad, but I feel like I'm getting close to ready for the contest this weekend at the Pismo Pier! Me and Jay are battling!
Sunday, November 1, 2009
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