More like a truth cookie.

Never seen a fortune like this.

24/24 - so shitty today.

From the best day in the last 6 months to the worst.  Weather was cloudy and there was some wind on it.  I was a little hungover to boot.  I caught 6 waves though, it was still fun.  Nap now.

23/23 Lowers - so good.

Surfed Trestles with Jay, but for some reason he decided to surf san'o instead of uncrowded lowers - I posted up... So good. Surfed for 4 hours until I buckled the nose of my board. The 3 buckle or major board trauma in 2 months...

My favorite surfer and the best of all time, but… 22/22

it still needs to be said. Yeah we know you dinged up your foot. Yeah, I'm sure you felt it, I'm sure it hurt. Dude, don't be a drama queen! You don't need to limp down the beach and then pull massive turn after massive turn and then limp back onto the sand to demonstrate how heroic you are. "I don't care if my foot falls off I'm still surfing, haha (smile)" ? You are not pulling some dude out of a trench in Afghanistan and saving his life, you are surfing. One time I put duct tape over my stitches on my stomach so that I could surf, I think I should've gotten a medal for that one, especially because I wasn't getting paid to surf…

Maybe people like these "overcoming the odds" stories, but I'm over it. Parko jacked his ankle last year and it cost him the world title, I didn't hear shit out of him. Maybe he was saying it, but I just didn't hear him making excuses. Kelly, you won the f'ing contest dude...

By-the-way, I had a good surf this morning. Wind swell, so fun.

Hot air cold water

Damn it looks good out there.

I'll be even after this sesh... I can wait to take apart some
springtime wedges!

Buy American... Mazda

15/15 - Good Friday - so good!

Last years post:

http://portosurf.blogspot.com/2009/04/day-23-good-friday-and-i-mean-good.html

It was really good today.  The only problem is that it was so consistent once you caught a wave it was a fight to get back out.  Anyway, I surfed for a long time on this Good Friday like last year.  I got thumped over and over for sure.  I was thrown to the bottom multiple times, most of which included me holding onto my board as a result of a duck dive.  But the payoff was a barrel fest.  I got tons of barrels but only came out of 2.  So fun, so good.

Yesterday was 14/14

It was out of control.  I was the only one out.  I made it outside somehow and then got stuck in a rip that sent me out to sea.  I was able to paddle out of that back into the line up to immediately get cleaned up by a bomb set.  Some how I got 3 waves in about 45 minutes, but it was not easy.  Glad I did it though.

The next time I think it's hard to surf...

I'll look at this photo.  Tom sent it yesterday.  It is from Tahoe on Monday.  You have to be pretty hardcore...

I cannot begin to explain...

To you how bad this is going to suck. Super consistent, windy, big and
cold. My back hurts and i'm tired. Play a violin for me please.

Multimedia message

What to do? What to do. I really don't want to surf this morning, but I think I is going to rain and get bigger so I should go get 3 I guess. It is so shitty.

13/11 - Mike Olson please check in for your heat!

The contest organizers really screwed this one up. First of all they didn't tell me that I was in the 7:15 heat so I was struggling to get my wetsuit on at 7:13. Secondly, I have no idea why they decided to do a living room start! So that's the situation, the horn rings at 7:15 and I have to get 3 waves by 7:30. Run down the hill and it's on! Of course it was way bigger than yesterday and super consistent so by the time I got in position it was 7:21. 9 min to get 3 waves... I won my heat.

It was good!!! Shit, that always happens. It was good and hardly anyone out because it is onday and I only have time for 3 waves. Live and never learn is my saying.

New Favorite Name on Tour:
Was - Jihad Khodr
Now is - Wiggolly Dantas
Both brazies.

The Nice Day... 12/10

Got 4 waves. It was about 80 degrees on the beach with people
everywhere. There were a few waves to be had but I hadn't found them.

11/9 - Fun at turtles ok at porto

Surfed porto int he morning yesterday, I got a few, just not the one I wanted.  Then me and Jay drove down to my Encinitas for my brothers b-day party.  I got some good ones at turtles!  So fun to surf a reef after tons of beach break.  You feel like everything slows down.  I had one that I got a hold of for 3 shwacks.  It has been a long time for me to do that...  Back to shit beach break, oh well, I really think the discipline in hard to surf stuff helps my surfing even if it isn't as fun.

9/8 - Changing order up

It is 9 sessions in 8 days.  That makes more sense.  I headed out yesterday in the arvo and got a few.  Saw Bret out there and he said it was going to shut down.  He was right, it shut down, I got cold and caught a crappy one in.  I surfed basically by myself.  Had a few good ones early though.  Logged seshy!

Vocabulary Lesson - 8/8

Shithouse [shit-hous]

-adjective

1. When the surf generally sucks

2. When anything generally sucks

"This morning the waves were shithouse, even though I caught a few all the way to the inside"

This morning it was shithouse, I got up and thought it was offshore so I ran down to the waters edge in the dark. It was then I realized that it was side shore at about 10mph and there was a pretty good bump/lump on the water. I was able to surf for more than an hour, but I did not catch much.

Going Back to Tavi!!!

Two weeks of paradise!

Not that flash today.

Living the Dream - 7/7

Surfed this morning - I'll admit, it was a forced effort.  There were some waves however, but I only had time for to catch 4 because I woke up late.  Only one real wave where I had 2 turns on it.  It felt good.  I'm looking forward to a good long session where I don't have to get out of the water at a set time.

 

Living the Dream - Erik Furuholmen

I was joking when I said Jay you should enter that contest, but it looks like a dude that we surf with in the WSA did.  He got a 1.45 in the round of 128 for the Vans Pier Classic at HB.  Does that mean he's pro?  Do we need to file a formal protest?  Jay do you think you could get better than a 1.45?