Day 6

It is a lot easier to always be in trunks.  I admit.  This streak, feels far more doable than previous ones.  Retirement + Paradise = Surfing A lot made easy.  At least that is how it feels today.  Maybe it will be different tomorrow.

Surfed some half-formed sandbars in the bay today.  Pretty walled, but still found a couple good ones.  It blows my mind that what I'm surfing daily is better than a good day in El Porto, where I used to live.  Additionally, there is nobody out except for a few tourists.  I guess that is because there are world-class waves all over the joint.  It is weird surfing solo all the time, but I love it.

Swam 750m today and worked on holding my breath.  I feel like I'm pretty close to getting into some more challenging surf.

I'm looking forward to being in top shape for our trip to New Zealand / Bali?  Or wherever there are some good waves.  I'm starting to get my grom-stoke back!