The simple fact is that there is not enough time to surf, there are too many people in the water, it is a pain in the ass, yet I constantly rearrange my life to get another hour of waves.

The problem is that it has been raining and I have been sick. I'm falling out of surf shape pretty quick and it is depressing. I'm going to, as always fight my way back into shape, get a "couple a", which is aussie for a couple of waves. It is funny what a solid cracks above the lip will do for you...