Drive Home

Day 11

Had a good session today by myself. That seems to be more the norm when I surf the beach break. I had a look at trees but it was too big and there was a lot of rip current. There were people out, but it didn't look good so I went down the beach to the Cape. Got a couple a good below sea level waves and rode them pretty far for the conditions. It was really heavy beach break but fun.

Drive home pic

Day 10 - Super Bowl Sunday.

It was horrible out there today! I surfed the Cape. Horrible. I'm glad I got that out-of-the-way today. The funny thing is that I did get one decent left. I was able to pump and pick up speed. Hopefully tomorrow's better!

Day 9

So gnarly today! Waited too long. Now a cold front hit. First one. It got really bad fast. Caught 3 waves. Shore pound, but kept the streak alive!

Day eight

Surfed Coco's today. It was really good. Head high and perfect. Only four guys out. I started to surf really well. Although a little bit inconsistent. So much fun!

Day 7

I surf the bay today and it was really good. It was small enough to be manageable for me. Plus my confidence is getting higher. I swam as well today. I swam 1000 m today. My surfing is coming up to par as well. But my back is bothering me now. I'll work through it.

Day 6

It is a lot easier to always be in trunks.  I admit.  This streak, feels far more doable than previous ones.  Retirement + Paradise = Surfing A lot made easy.  At least that is how it feels today.  Maybe it will be different tomorrow.

Surfed some half-formed sandbars in the bay today.  Pretty walled, but still found a couple good ones.  It blows my mind that what I'm surfing daily is better than a good day in El Porto, where I used to live.  Additionally, there is nobody out except for a few tourists.  I guess that is because there are world-class waves all over the joint.  It is weird surfing solo all the time, but I love it.

Swam 750m today and worked on holding my breath.  I feel like I'm pretty close to getting into some more challenging surf.

I'm looking forward to being in top shape for our trip to New Zealand / Bali?  Or wherever there are some good waves.  I'm starting to get my grom-stoke back!

Day 5 – I feel like the Martian!

I find myself planning everything and advanced making sure that I can make my sessions so I feel like the Martian. OK well it's not really like that, but I feel like I have to plan around my surf sessions now to make sure that I make it a continuous streak prior to going to New Zealand.

This morning, scratch that, today I went to pavilions yet again. The reason why is that it has been big and I'm not really ready to make the paddle into 6-8 foot waves at a legitimately heavy break. Anyway, I had fun and I'm starting to get my groove back so it is really exciting. However, I have a lot to work on in terms of my cardio, strength etc. I just got a membership at the local pool so hopefully that will give me the confidence to get out when it gets big.  Nothing worse then breaking a board/leash when you are way offshore and in a lot of current.

Days until New Zealand!

Also days left in streak.

Day 4

The waves picked up today again. I served pavilions again to get out of the way of the bigger sets. I'm still out of shape. I went and checked my Coco's but it wasn't that great because it had some size. So today I had a couple of good turns however. I'm pretty happy with how it's progressing so far. It is really fun to get out the water.

Live Kauai, Vacation California?

That is what we are doing  now.  It is weird.  Being around all these people coming from our new home where there are so few people.  Looking forward to the next stage of our life.  I'd be lying if I said that I'm not anxious and in my head a lot.  Also, looking back at some of the blogs that I have posted, I think I'm going to start blogging again.  It is very therapeutic and I love to write.

Been a while - I think I'll start this up again

In Kauai - amazing place for sure.  Caught a lot of waves the other day, it is amazing that I have purposefully avoided the Hawaiian Islands until now.  I remember my high school friends telling me that some locals hassled them.  I didn't need that, I preferred to go elsewhere.  Interesting that at age 41, I'm not worried about being hassled as much anymore.  The pride is gone, the ego is a shadow of what it was.  Surfing the waves the other day was easy, coming out of deep water.  I have the data to prove it...  Oh and I got partially hassled...

I'm trying so hard to turn that corner!!!

My new board seems ok. Seems like it maybe a bit too much foam, but I don't know yet.

I think I'm ready to just walk away from my job. Not for another job, just walk... That's awesome. The only thing in life that I have never quit is surfing... So why not just stick to that? Everything else will work itself out...

Trying to turn the corner

I've done it a number of times, but never sustainably. Hopefully this time it is. I have a kid on the way and I'm looking forward to that, but I need to get a balanced life going.

But, I'm pretty much depressed otherwise and I need to shake the funk before this whole story ends really bad... Which when I think about that, it may be the best thing and that's kind of funny.

I missed the the WSA in Huntington yesterday. I would have really liked to have been there. I actually went and picked up 2 boards from HSS, I saw the WSA set up, it made me sick to my stomach. Yesterday I pretty much decided that was not going to surf them anymore, but I think that was me just being a little bitch, whining and feeling sorry for myself. That's just lame. I'll do what I do and it is that simple, maybe I will, maybe I wont.

This blog is for nobody, it is for me.

6 Down - Feeling it

New pad is working out well.  Took our dog on a run on my skater this morning while I watched the crowded waves - the spotted dude is so outta shape!  This morning was good and I was on it at 5:30.  Surfed until about 7 when it was completely packed out.  Chest high with really good shape.  I had an 8 point ride this morning.  Massive carve to tail release, full rail cut back off the white water hard, two pumps and then blow the tail.  Surfing really well today.  No leash, lost my board once and didn't hold back.  That has me feeling it.  Looking forward to surfing with homey this weekend, it should be fun.  Maybe Dume.  Maybe somewhere else, I don't know.

Back in the saddle... 6 down

I've been keeping a running total in my head.  Made up some ground in Tavi, lost some recently.  6 down.  Fun this morning.  Had some waist high runners with 2 - 3 snaps felt good on the komp.  So stoked to get back on the contest circuit!  Can't wait until August to fire back up!  New apartment, wife, dog.  Getting settled, so stoked.  Oh and I cannot wait until I have internet and TV tomorrow.  That will be awesome.  You don't know until you don't have it for 2 weeks.

My Day

What is love?

Love is one of those things that is hard to define, like the meaning of life, there is no simple way to describe it. So the description takes many forms, sometimes in art, sometimes in music and even sometimes in form of harsh words as a parent tries to protect his offspring from the youthful stupidity of "learning the hard way". So, I will try to describe it to you in my own way. Of course, for me, since I lack that innate ability of artistic expression that is so often associated with effective emotional communication on the topic, I must then take the boring approach of defining it and giving examples of it. Through my trials and tribulations, I have observed that for love to sustain, there are certain things that have to exist. These are Trust, Friendship and Respect. I have also noted that the web that holds these things together is a solid base of consistent Communication. This is what is needed to find a partner that is compatible with you for the long run. It is much beyond the simple visual that you have of walking down the trail with her under your arm and feeling proud that other guys are checking her out. Showing off her curves, being proud of her size the way she looks. Because, you will have some bad times with her, and she'll need to stand by your side when you do. Picturing yourself growing old together is nice, but not a requirement. Yes, I've experimented over the last few years, I tried the alternative types, bigger ones, the sleeker ones, but as I drift in search of the meaning of each relationship, I somehow lost sight of the fundamentals of any relationship. Trust: This has been lacking, that solid feeling off the bottom, that positive feeling when you take a cutback off the whitewater, the ability to release her tail and show it to the guys out the back, yet not be jealous if they want to ride her. Then there is Friendship: Those days when it is windy and there is nobody else around, you have to have that connection to just have fun with her no matter what the conditions are. To enjoy each others presence, to be able to reach down and feel her rail and know that she is meant for you. Respect: She stands on her own merit, she makes you proud. Communication: Transferring your desire through your feet, giving each other positive feedback. What does this equal? You see I have found love again, she is shorter by an inch, a little skinner, but just a tad thicker, she has traditional values as I'm done experimenting with the alternative types and yes, we have a connection. Yes, I love my new Rusty Redline.

What is love, baby don't hurt me, don't hurt me, no more...