That Stupid Guy...

I wish that I could take credit for the name, but my neighbor gave it to me.  She is the sweetest little old lady (80+).  But, one weekday she didn't know that I was home and I had just put the trashcans away (my trashcans – not hers), I admit they were a little mixed up.  Anyway, she had to go fix them (obsessive or something).  While she was arranging them to her liking, she got all angry and yelled, "That stupid guy!".   Sweet old lady, yeah right!  So funny.

6/6 Days/Sessions

Starting to feel it again. Getting that confidence back. Oh yeah. Late drop, throw it on edge pull in high and tight. It is the little nuances that you don't think about that make the difference. When pulling into a barrel, the tendency is to just want to stand there. What I have found is that if pull under and go as high as possible in the barrel and make a slight adjustment (turning down the face of the wave) you can pick up just enough speed and tuck just enough to fit in and make it out. I did this in the morning. Sick barrel - came out clean. Then I found another one that I back-doored. A kid was right in front of me duck diving, so I either had to pull it off or we would be a tangled mess on the inside. Same high-and-tight move. Although I did not make it out of this one, I fit in perfectly and adjusted along the way to get some crazy travel time. I pulled in about 15 yards before the kid and when I fell, I came up about 15 yards on the other side of the kid. So I was in there for about 30 yards - a pretty good distance for a barrel at my home break. The kid immediately threw his hands up and hooted for me. That will make your session, it did mine. Of course, I had to play it off, but I was stoked!

Eddie Means offshore - 5/5

Yeah Yeah.  So good out there today.  Had a stand-up (maybe a little crouched) barrel but got pinched.  I heard there was going to be a Catalina eddie today.  It is the time of the year for those to start and what that means for me is offshores.  I love it.  3 and 3 is where I stand, I need a couple double session days to give me a bit of a buffer.  Jay is supposed to be doing the streak with me, not sure if he is.  I'm really at 5 and 5 because I started last Friday and I also surfed Saturday in Huntington, so screw it I'm using the 5/5 number.

2-2-22

2 days, 2 sessions on the 22nd.

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Wierd this morning. Shallow sand bars, pretty solid out there though. Had wrong board. Caught a wave going out to sea, cuz it broke on the shallow sand bar. Should've stood up - would've been a first.

Time to get back in the game...

I'm 5 sessions behind right now on my 365 in 365. It'll be tough to catch up this week, but I will. Work out today and Yoga tonight. Get ready for the pain! I don't know why I'm always injured during the same time of the year (last year was knee surgery). The waves are the best (most challenging) and that is what I love. I'll be back in the water this week. This morning there were spitting barrels reminiscent of Cape Hatteras or something. Nobody out. It is breaking down towards Dockweiler now! The sand has moved so much that there are bars down there. Impressive. I have to get back in the water...

Nice...

Day 28 - Session 33

Was pretty walled, but I hooked into some rifles. Race course turns, lots of speed, offshore winds so surfing under the lip.

Day 27 - Sessions 31 & 32

In the morning, it was big. I worked from home. I got out there and got some serious bombs - so fun. Some big turns, some closeouts - I love it.

Went to surf the Jetty in the afternoon with Ben. Holy shit, it was good. That wave is as good as any wave in SoCal when it is on, I mean ANY. Bomb outside barrel section, into open face that holds for 150 yards, what is better than that? Crazy, we timed it right and scored, then it got crowded around 3pm - I went back to work.

Day 26 - Session 30

Some small waves today, but I turned it on with the cutty. I got some mojo back - Pretty stoked on that.

No surf yesterday or today.

Traveling - San Fran today.

Swell on the way though, I'm looking forward to it.

The competition and the intel...

Watch this video. This is the guy who wins all the NSSA contests. He's going through his boards and telling us what he's riding and why.



And here is a similar segment that I did:

Day 23 - Session 29

Video taped in the afternoon with my brother and jason. Saw tim out in the water, but didn't talk to him. It was a really nice day, glassy and small. Fun though.

Day 22 - Session 27 & 28

Surfed really well in the morning on the mushy 45th street bar and then Jay and I video taped in the afternoon. It was really bad in the afternoon.

Day 21 - Session 26

Small wave friday the 13th! Surfed ok, it is just so small!

Day 20 - Sessions 24 & 25

Surfed 2x today. Surfed really well in the arvo. Saw Jensen out there (competition in our surf league). He's not that good, which gave me confidence.

Day 19 - Session 23 - Veterans Day!

Veterans Day!!! I'm thankful for the Vets.

I couldn't figure out why my break wasn't inundated with High Schoolers... Veterans Day. Surfed really well at the start and then it became really foggy and I could not figure out where to sit. I could not see the beach at all, so I could not see the wave and I could not get in the proper position. I was really happy to be surfing better though in the beginning. I ended up getting out of the water and I was about 400 yards down the beach!!! I guess, now that I think about it I was only catching rights and I would just paddle straight back out, but the walk home was pretty long.

My back is sore from really cranking some turns in the beginning.

Day 18 - Session 22

Waves weren't all that great and it was crowded. Probably because there had been waves and the stories had filtered out about the sessions that everyone had. To be honest, I struggled out there, not feeling that sharp - frustrated a bit.

Day 17 - Took the day off

Was tired and bummed about surfing poorly at HB. Needed a day. I have to ramp up my head for January! 5 contests! My goal is 5 finals in January. No time to think, I'll have to be sharp. It will be fun, I cannot wait.

Day 16 - Session 21 - Bummed

Surfed poorly in my heat in very good HB conditions. It was an NSSA - last second entry. I got equal 7th. Jay got 3rd, he won his 1st heat, he caught the right waves and surfed them well. In the final, nobody is a match for Taco in those waves. The guy dominates. We'll get there though. I think by the end of this hectic season in both the NSSA and the WSA, we'll be getting into the finals at every contest.