Day 191 - Surfing is fun

Machado checking my style...

Day 182 - So good out there today...

It has been big and good. My broken body is slowly recovering. I need some Yoga in a bad way. I need to get some flexibility back. In need that spring in my muscles.

Today showed head-high peaks that reminded me of a crossed up day at Huntington. Wow! It was good. The water was warm and my forehand tail slide was working. I had a couple of big slides today. I'm pulling them off with ease now. I cannot explain why. I'm stoked again. My frontside cutback is suffering, I think because I'm so stiff... We'll see if we can change that.

Tonight I'll certainly go to Yoga. I think I'm going to surf in a little contest this weekend with Jason. More motivation.

Amazing that Today is 1/2 of a year surfing every day. How is that possible? How have I been able to dodge any and all commitments that would prohibit this? Particularly work ones? I don't know. 5 more days until day 187 which I think marks the end of summer. I'll probably keep it going until day 200 and take 201 off. Why? I don't know because 200 is an easy one to remember, an easy one to explain. I'll admit, this thing is silly, but it has been one of the best experiences of my life.

I think I'm already lining up my next challenge. Not sure what it will be, but I think it will be more sessions than days... This way I have incentives to get out there multiple times when it is good. So, Triple sessions will be at a premium on the weekends! Double sessions during the week will be pushed for. I'll have a "Bank" and the goal will be to not let the count drop below the number of days. Yeah! This sounds fun... I'll have an incentive to build the bank up as much as possible in case I have to burn a week or two due to weather or a vacation (that doesn't involve surf) or whatever.

I plan on starting this one the starting October 10th (I have to go to TN on the 7th and 8th). I've never gone a full year where I didn't have at least 1 super long break from surfing. I always get out of shape and I have to fight my way back into it. This is no longer for me. I'm going to stay in shape and stay in surf shape as well...

Day 173 - My body is breaking...

I have pain in 5 places: 1) upper back - massive spasm, 2) Lower back - general tightness a bit of a spasm, 3) Both hips are very tight, 4) My left knee has been bothering me (right one is the one that I had surgery on), 5) My ankle that I rolled a couple of weeks ago.

Something has to change. I have to fit some yoga/other fitness into my routine. I think the asymmetry of surfing, has me hurting. I have to align a little better. Yoga tommorow, not because I want to, because I have to. It'll take some time before it helps...

I caught 4 waves today after surfing my brains out for the last couple of weeks. I need a break and to recover a little bit. The waves were really good however.

Day 168 - the day that hasn't happened yet...

I was going to go surf, but I'll admit it, I'm very sore from getting in the water a lot over the last week or so. My legs are sore, my arms are sore, I'm generally in need of some yoga or something. Well, instead of going to surf this morning, I instead decided to call up Jay and I started screwing with iChat. If you want to see the result, check his blog here: Jay's Blog. iChat rules!!! Anyway I did not surf.

To finish my thoughts from my previous blog, when I was out in the water last night my neighbor Chris was out there and he made a comment about how clear the water is. This is when he said, "It's just like a giant Brita filter with all the ash raining down on the water from the fires." I guess he could be right, but I just think it is funny. So as the ash sinks, does it collect all the particulate? I don't know, I just like visual of a giant brita filter. I like brita filters...

I'll go surf as soon as I get home.

Day 167 - The Brita Effect...

Ash in the water... Ambi I'm out - have to continue tomorrow. I have been surfing my brains out as of late. Tightening up my small wave style.

Smoke

It has been fun lately, I'll have to get back to updating my blog!

New license pic

Old license pic

Day 163 - Boosting

Had so much fun out there this morning! Chest-high and fast. I actually don't know where the swell is coming from, but I know it was fun - seemed west. I felt really comfortable on my board out there and I even pulled an air! With speed to burn, I hit a little ramp andpopped an ollie about 1 1/2 feet out landing like you land a floater, right in the transition. So fun, so stoked. With my ankle feeling better, I figured out that I have been leaning too much on my bottom turn, causing me to lean too much on my top turn the opposite way, resulting in not being over my board for the top turn. Translation: I was pulling everything today, stayed right over my board the whole time.

Supposedly there is going to be some mid-period NW swell this weekend. I hope so! With the sand the way it is right now, the weather, the crossed up nature of the swells and the short periods it could be super fun this weekend. It could be... Probably not though, but at least it has a chance. Before the sand moves around (from bigger winter storms), when the right swell hits, it's a fricken barrel-fest. Lots of thumpage, but every now and then, yeah, a big fat pipe that you can get out of. I hope this happens. After the surf lately, which has been fast and critical, just not large like it has been down south, I'm about as quick out of the gates as I can be. This is critical for getting some time in the green room. Stay tuned. I'm stretching tonight. Nah, I'm stretching right now - In my office!

Day 157 - Jay's 60 Seconds

Some south in the water today. Got some good ones. Racing, chasing and bouncing off the bottom at low tide.

The real one...

http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/sixty-seconds/brian-conleys-giant-mexican-shack_29324

Day 156 - My Hard Disk Drive Broke

...I almost have the answer after a long day in the office, I'm in the middle of a Google query that I had just punched into my iPhone, "why hard disk drives fail". I'm very interested in knowing the answer to this as I had two hard drives die in the last 3 days. As I'm clicking on the search result, which I hope will put my mind at ease, I step off of the curb onto an uneven spot in the pavement. Holy shit, I just rolled my ankle! I'm not sure if I went to the ground as my memory is a bit blurry in all the pain but I know that I staggered to the find support from the nearest skyscraper. You see, I was downtown, on my way to the bus right across from the library at 6th street, it is an area busy with people in the late afternoon, but I did not try to hide the pain, I could feel people looking at me, wondering what was wrong with me. Had I been shot? Was I wasted? Is it performance art? I stumbled over to one of the marble encrusted blocks that litter the courtyard and proceeded to lie on my back staring up at a patch of blue sky enshrouded by vertical glass on all sides. The only thing that I could think of is, "My streak is over, my streak is over." Are you serious? My streak is over at the hands of my inability to focus on walking? Laying on my back in my suit and tie, my mind is racing, thinking about the last incident like this, which was at USC when I was in grad school. I rolled the same ankle in a similar manner, just walking, and it broke a bone chip off, locking up the joint and requiring surgery. These thoughts were spinning through my head at light speed, reconciling the importance of my streak and then slowly fading into the realization that it is not important at all. I made it up, nobody's life depends on it, it is just something that I created out of thin air. So if the streak is over, then it is over and it is OK. Well, the good news is that I have rolled my ankle many times over the years playing basketball and I knew that often times it is not as serious as the initial immobility and pain tells you. I hadn't surfed yet last night after a long day at the office, but I did manage to get out there. I felt the pain and my ankle certainly did pop, probably tearing some scar tissue or a ligament, but it did not stop the streak. My ankle is a bit swollen, and this morning was no easy feat to get out in the water as the joint had plenty of time over night to stiffen up, but I made it and to my surprise the waves were a lot bigger than they have been. I rode the 10 footer and struggled to make a few of the drops with the increase in size. 1 month to go to cover 2 full seasons, I think the number I'm shooting for is 187, which will be the official end of summer. Wow. So much has happened over the last 5 months. I cannot wait to get to 6 months so that I can start on my next meaningless adventure.

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Day 152 - Just the motions...

So small, it is hard to motivate for sure. Every time I go, I have fun however. Today, I caught a few where I generated speed and forced a turn or two. These are the days that pay dividends when it picks up. You know how to get speed from all of the groveling, but with a much bigger canvas, filling in the blanks is so much easier.

Day 145 - Wave of the day

It was pretty walled out there today, but I managed to pick off the wave of the day... Boosted, probably about 2 feet out, landed on top of the lip, fell through and blew up. Very fast, very walled, very clean, this fits my style perfectly. If I get one pump, I can make sections, which results in super fun session like this morning.

Oh yeah, I erased about 36 hours of my life this weekend. Watched UFC - Anderson Silva, are you kidding me? I have never seen anything like this guy. If you don't know what I'm talking about, it is not important. This guy is the best fighter on the planet, he destroyed a former light heavy weight champion, who can take a punch - Forrest Griffin. Anyway, in all the excitement I decided to take some shots of tequila, effectively elimininating my Sunday. I still held my streak together, but just barely. I got up at 6:00 pm and got out in the water about 6:15 for a 45 minute session.

Watching you.

Happy birthday to me.

Day 139 - Fun peaks, really fun

Late session for me, surfed for about 45 minutes. It was really fun, my body is aching a little, but I still surfed OK. I went to the DMV today, it took about 2 hours... What a mess.

Brainstorming for DMV photo

D M V

Fun windswell this morning.

Day 138 - Quake Weather

There is something about the tropical flow that we have going on. I assume that is what is going on, it is just that the air seems warmer than normal, the sunset was out-of-control and the water feels like a bathtub. I got out after work for a few and a few is what I got. It was really good at the start, probably shoulder high +, but it seems that the tide swamped it and I sat out there by myself shooting my board in the air over and over because there were no waves into the close of the tropical day. I still caught about 5 or 6 to the beach from the outside before whistle blew, still super fun.

Earthquake in mex today, it was probably 350 miles away, but our building still shook enough to cause my co-worker Diana to run for the exit. Trust me, I wasn't far behind her. I'm not a tough guy when it comes to the 20th floor weeble wobbles.

Anyway, my other co-worker (Tanya) told me the other day that it is easy to loop stuff in Garage Band (Apple Software), so I looped some stuff together and put some video to it that my dad shot of Doheny on that big Saturday. Amazing, looping that stuff took about 30 minutes, front to back and I had never used the software before. Talk about democratization through technology. Mind you, I don't have a musical bone in my body.

You won't see Doheny like this very often, I never have. It is almost always tiny, with good shape. This was the right swell however.

Early Worm Gets the Bird

Haven't surfed yet. Have to go home and surf some slop now... Looking forward to it. It is weird when I do not get a surf in early, the day just isn't as enjoyable. This morning, the waves looked actually pretty solid and pretty decent on the shape-o-meter. Oh well, there's always tomorrow. Unless this guy is right...

Notice that this was July 3rd and not in response to today's earthquake. I like the mug shot.

Gulf of California Earthquake - Is the Big One Coming? Submitted Friday, July 03, 2009 Mark Parsec

The recent 6.0 earthquake in the Gulf of California (July 3, 2009) is a reminder of the complex fault structures that run up the western coast of the United States. Although the earthquake struck 42 miles southwest of Ahome, Mexico, in Sinaloa state, the fault structures involved are intricately connected with the faults in Southern California. USGS map of July 3, 2009, showing faults and recent earthquakes. Historically, when one of these faults in the Gulf of California slips it begins a chain reaction of fault movements up and down the coast. The fault that runs under the Gulf of California runs north into the Imperial Valley of California in the vicinity of the cities of Mexicali, El Centro and Palm Springs. Not far to the west and northwest, and connected to these fault systems, lay San Diego and the sprawling Los Angeles Basin, with its infamous San Andreas Fault. A BRIEF SUMMARY OF CALIFORNIA EARTHQUAKES Date Time Location Magnitude 1. 01.09.1857 8:24 am Fort Tejon 7.9 2. 2.24.1892 11:20 pm Laguna Salada 7.3 3. 12.25.1899 4:25 am San Jacinto/Hemet 6.7 4. 04.21.1918 2:31 pm San Jacinto 6.8 5. 06.29.1925 7:42 am Santa Barbara 6.8 6. 11.04.1927 5:51 pm Offshore Lompoc 7.1 7. 03.10.1933 5:54 pm Long Beach 6.4 8. 05.18.1940 8:37 pm Imperial Valley 6.9 9. 04.10.1947 7:58 am Manix 6.5 10. 07.21.1952 3:52 am Kern County 7.5 11. 04.09.1968 6:29 pm Borrego Mountain 6.6 12. 02.09.1971 6:01 am San Fernando 6.6 13. 10.15.1979 4:16 pm Imperial Valley 6.4 14. 07.08.1986 2:21 am North Palm Springs 5.7 15. 10.01.1987 7:42 am Whittier Narrows 5.9 16. 11.24.1987 5:15 am Superstition Hills 6.6 17. 06.28.1991 7:43 am Sierra Madre 5.8 18. 04.22.1992 9:50 pm Joshua Tree 6.1 19. 06.28.1992 4:57 am Landers 7.3 20. 06.28.1992 8:05 am Big Bear 6.3 21. 01.17.1994 4:30 am Northridge 6.7 22. 10.16.1999 2:46 am Hector Mine 7.1 23. 12.22.2003 11:15 am San Simeon 6.5 24. 07.29.2008 11:42 am Chino Hills 5.4 A word of caution should be conveyed to the residents of the southern California area whenever this type of fault activity commences so they may be better prepared for the BIG ONE. Keep your eyes on Southern California, I anticipate a major quake within 90 days. The Gulf of California (highlighted)