Tuesday, September 1, 2009
Friday, August 28, 2009
Day 163 - Boosting
Had so much fun out there this morning! Chest-high and fast. I actually don't know where the swell is coming from, but I know it was fun - seemed west. I felt really comfortable on my board out there and I even pulled an air! With speed to burn, I hit a little ramp andpopped an ollie about 1 1/2 feet out landing like you land a floater, right in the transition. So fun, so stoked. With my ankle feeling better, I figured out that I have been leaning too much on my bottom turn, causing me to lean too much on my top turn the opposite way, resulting in not being over my board for the top turn. Translation: I was pulling everything today, stayed right over my board the whole time.
Supposedly there is going to be some mid-period NW swell this weekend. I hope so! With the sand the way it is right now, the weather, the crossed up nature of the swells and the short periods it could be super fun this weekend. It could be... Probably not though, but at least it has a chance. Before the sand moves around (from bigger winter storms), when the right swell hits, it's a fricken barrel-fest. Lots of thumpage, but every now and then, yeah, a big fat pipe that you can get out of. I hope this happens. After the surf lately, which has been fast and critical, just not large like it has been down south, I'm about as quick out of the gates as I can be. This is critical for getting some time in the green room. Stay tuned. I'm stretching tonight. Nah, I'm stretching right now - In my office!
Supposedly there is going to be some mid-period NW swell this weekend. I hope so! With the sand the way it is right now, the weather, the crossed up nature of the swells and the short periods it could be super fun this weekend. It could be... Probably not though, but at least it has a chance. Before the sand moves around (from bigger winter storms), when the right swell hits, it's a fricken barrel-fest. Lots of thumpage, but every now and then, yeah, a big fat pipe that you can get out of. I hope this happens. After the surf lately, which has been fast and critical, just not large like it has been down south, I'm about as quick out of the gates as I can be. This is critical for getting some time in the green room. Stay tuned. I'm stretching tonight. Nah, I'm stretching right now - In my office!
Saturday, August 22, 2009
Day 157 - Jay's 60 Seconds
Some south in the water today. Got some good ones. Racing, chasing and bouncing off the bottom at low tide.
The real one...
Friday, August 21, 2009
Day 156 - My Hard Disk Drive Broke
...I almost have the answer after a long day in the office, I'm in the middle of a Google query that I had just punched into my iPhone, "why hard disk drives fail". I'm very interested in knowing the answer to this as I had two hard drives die in the last 3 days. As I'm clicking on the search result, which I hope will put my mind at ease, I step off of the curb onto an uneven spot in the pavement. Holy shit, I just rolled my ankle! I'm not sure if I went to the ground as my memory is a bit blurry in all the pain but I know that I staggered to the find support from the nearest skyscraper. You see, I was downtown, on my way to the bus right across from the library at 6th street, it is an area busy with people in the late afternoon, but I did not try to hide the pain, I could feel people looking at me, wondering what was wrong with me. Had I been shot? Was I wasted? Is it performance art? I stumbled over to one of the marble encrusted blocks that litter the courtyard and proceeded to lie on my back staring up at a patch of blue sky enshrouded by vertical glass on all sides. The only thing that I could think of is, "My streak is over, my streak is over." Are you serious? My streak is over at the hands of my inability to focus on walking? Laying on my back in my suit and tie, my mind is racing, thinking about the last incident like this, which was at USC when I was in grad school. I rolled the same ankle in a similar manner, just walking, and it broke a bone chip off, locking up the joint and requiring surgery. These thoughts were spinning through my head at light speed, reconciling the importance of my streak and then slowly fading into the realization that it is not important at all. I made it up, nobody's life depends on it, it is just something that I created out of thin air. So if the streak is over, then it is over and it is OK. Well, the good news is that I have rolled my ankle many times over the years playing basketball and I knew that often times it is not as serious as the initial immobility and pain tells you. I hadn't surfed yet last night after a long day at the office, but I did manage to get out there. I felt the pain and my ankle certainly did pop, probably tearing some scar tissue or a ligament, but it did not stop the streak. My ankle is a bit swollen, and this morning was no easy feat to get out in the water as the joint had plenty of time over night to stiffen up, but I made it and to my surprise the waves were a lot bigger than they have been. I rode the 10 footer and struggled to make a few of the drops with the increase in size. 1 month to go to cover 2 full seasons, I think the number I'm shooting for is 187, which will be the official end of summer. Wow. So much has happened over the last 5 months. I cannot wait to get to 6 months so that I can start on my next meaningless adventure.
Comparison Shopping:
FULL PRICE
ON SALE
Comparison Shopping:
FULL PRICE
ON SALE
Monday, August 17, 2009
Day 152 - Just the motions...
So small, it is hard to motivate for sure. Every time I go, I have fun however. Today, I caught a few where I generated speed and forced a turn or two. These are the days that pay dividends when it picks up. You know how to get speed from all of the groveling, but with a much bigger canvas, filling in the blanks is so much easier.
Monday, August 10, 2009
Day 145 - Wave of the day
It was pretty walled out there today, but I managed to pick off the wave of the day... Boosted, probably about 2 feet out, landed on top of the lip, fell through and blew up. Very fast, very walled, very clean, this fits my style perfectly. If I get one pump, I can make sections, which results in super fun session like this morning.
Oh yeah, I erased about 36 hours of my life this weekend. Watched UFC - Anderson Silva, are you kidding me? I have never seen anything like this guy. If you don't know what I'm talking about, it is not important. This guy is the best fighter on the planet, he destroyed a former light heavy weight champion, who can take a punch - Forrest Griffin. Anyway, in all the excitement I decided to take some shots of tequila, effectively elimininating my Sunday. I still held my streak together, but just barely. I got up at 6:00 pm and got out in the water about 6:15 for a 45 minute session.
Oh yeah, I erased about 36 hours of my life this weekend. Watched UFC - Anderson Silva, are you kidding me? I have never seen anything like this guy. If you don't know what I'm talking about, it is not important. This guy is the best fighter on the planet, he destroyed a former light heavy weight champion, who can take a punch - Forrest Griffin. Anyway, in all the excitement I decided to take some shots of tequila, effectively elimininating my Sunday. I still held my streak together, but just barely. I got up at 6:00 pm and got out in the water about 6:15 for a 45 minute session.
Friday, August 7, 2009
Tuesday, August 4, 2009
Day 139 - Fun peaks, really fun
Late session for me, surfed for about 45 minutes. It was really fun, my body is aching a little, but I still surfed OK. I went to the DMV today, it took about 2 hours... What a mess.
Monday, August 3, 2009
Day 138 - Quake Weather
There is something about the tropical flow that we have going on. I assume that is what is going on, it is just that the air seems warmer than normal, the sunset was out-of-control and the water feels like a bathtub. I got out after work for a few and a few is what I got. It was really good at the start, probably shoulder high +, but it seems that the tide swamped it and I sat out there by myself shooting my board in the air over and over because there were no waves into the close of the tropical day. I still caught about 5 or 6 to the beach from the outside before whistle blew, still super fun.
Earthquake in mex today, it was probably 350 miles away, but our building still shook enough to cause my co-worker Diana to run for the exit. Trust me, I wasn't far behind her. I'm not a tough guy when it comes to the 20th floor weeble wobbles.
Anyway, my other co-worker (Tanya) told me the other day that it is easy to loop stuff in Garage Band (Apple Software), so I looped some stuff together and put some video to it that my dad shot of Doheny on that big Saturday. Amazing, looping that stuff took about 30 minutes, front to back and I had never used the software before. Talk about democratization through technology. Mind you, I don't have a musical bone in my body.
You won't see Doheny like this very often, I never have. It is almost always tiny, with good shape. This was the right swell however.
Early Worm Gets the Bird
Haven't surfed yet. Have to go home and surf some slop now... Looking forward to it. It is weird when I do not get a surf in early, the day just isn't as enjoyable. This morning, the waves looked actually pretty solid and pretty decent on the shape-o-meter. Oh well, there's always tomorrow. Unless this guy is right...
Notice that this was July 3rd and not in response to today's earthquake. I like the mug shot.
Notice that this was July 3rd and not in response to today's earthquake. I like the mug shot.
The recent 6.0 earthquake in the Gulf of California (July 3, 2009) is a reminder of the complex fault structures that run up the western coast of the United States. Although the earthquake struck 42 miles southwest of Ahome, Mexico, in Sinaloa state, the fault structures involved are intricately connected with the faults in Southern California.  USGS map of July 3, 2009, showing faults and recent earthquakes. Historically, when one of these faults in the Gulf of California slips it begins a chain reaction of fault movements up and down the coast. The fault that runs under the Gulf of California runs north into the Imperial Valley of California in the vicinity of the cities of Mexicali, El Centro and Palm Springs. Not far to the west and northwest, and connected to these fault systems, lay San Diego and the sprawling Los Angeles Basin, with its infamous San Andreas Fault. A BRIEF SUMMARY OF CALIFORNIA EARTHQUAKES
A word of caution should be conveyed to the residents of the southern California area whenever this type of fault activity commences so they may be better prepared for the BIG ONE. Keep your eyes on Southern California, I anticipate a major quake within 90 days.  The Gulf of California (highlighted) |
Thursday, July 30, 2009
Day 134 - Ego/Insecurity
Theory:
Ego cannot exist without insecurity, but insecurity can exist without ego. I see it a lot. The biggest egos are always the most insecure people. By-the-way, I work in the finance industry. Talk about insecurity! Let's put a bunch of the "smartest" people together, give them a task that is graded on almost imperceptible differences in performance, which can be wiped out in a flash by unpredictable events. Oh yeah, and because they are "smart", let's pay them a lot of money to do it! Wait, bear with me here I'm figuring it all out, I have an ego that is fed by my insecurity, but I'm in an industry that by its nature creates insecurity because there is almost no difference in performance of what a "good" analyst and a "bad" one does? In other words, you don't have to "do" anything, but if you talk a big game from what I've seen, you are a "good" analyst! Um, teacher? Can I change my answer? I would like to be a Fireman now... What it's too late? Don't get me wrong, I love my job, but I certainly wouldn't if I took myself too seriously, if I didn't have fun with it all, trust me I know a lot of unhappy campers. Often times, it drives them to feed their insecurities by doing things better, they are constantly trying to be the best, to satisfy the insatiable, it is kind of like drinking water when you are hungry, it doesn't' work. Have you ever heard about the long hours on Wall Street? You can read these people like a book in my opinion, this is what they are doing but, then maybe that is my ego talking. Hmmm, I'm confusing myself. Ego, pride, arrogance, you know and I know that I'm better than you so... Ummm will you do me a favor? I don't know how to ask it, but, uh, can you, will you please tell me that its true? Because, honestly I'm not sure. Screw it, every time you tell me, I just increases my hunger for it, I guess I'll go put somebody down or attack somebody for no reason or at least fill my head full of useless facts and big words to tell them. By-the-way, I have always thought that you were stupid anyway. I thought this was a surf blog...
Whatever, take off your white wig... in the water, on land, puff that chest out you are insecure. Use big words when you don't need to, you are insecure. Don't let a guy get a wave that disrespected you, you are insecure. Do nothing, you are insecure. Don't fight back, you are insecure. Fight back like a rabid dog, you are insecure. So, if you have not figured it out yet, what I'm saying is that we are all insecure, it just manifests itself in different ways. However, there are different degrees of insecurity, and once again, that is not the point, the point is that ego is inversely correlated with insecurity. Being nice to people for no reason, treat them with respect for no reason, then you'll be turning insecurity on its head, you'll be breaking down the formula that drives you, you'll be breaking down primal human nature. Remember, if you have a reason for respecting someone, you are not being selfless. In other words, if you have something to gain, then it is about you, and that my friend is that little voice trying to shovel more ego into the insecurity furnace. But if you do it for no reason, then you are letting go of that insecurity, you are climbing down from the totem pole and trust me, it'll make you happier. It dawned on me out in the water today, I had a couple of good waves and I struck up a conversation with somebody who was just learning. The dude was just random, but he was so stoked to talk to me, he must have suddenly felt included out there. I definitely do not do this enough, but I bet that if I opened up these conversations a bit more, it would result in more respect and more waves, which is typically the goal of having stink-eye in the first place. The real upside is just to be human, since life exists in our interactions, a result of having respect is that both sides benefit from this general kindness, which is both selfish and selfless if you want to talk about paradoxes...
Waves were fun, I had a legit 3-turner. Trying to link turns, having fun doing that. I'm looking forward to tomorrow as the H1N1 seems to be subsiding slightly. I hope there will be waves. It was about chest high with some morning sickness, but pretty solid, not mushy at all. I like that, it fits my style.
Ego cannot exist without insecurity, but insecurity can exist without ego. I see it a lot. The biggest egos are always the most insecure people. By-the-way, I work in the finance industry. Talk about insecurity! Let's put a bunch of the "smartest" people together, give them a task that is graded on almost imperceptible differences in performance, which can be wiped out in a flash by unpredictable events. Oh yeah, and because they are "smart", let's pay them a lot of money to do it! Wait, bear with me here I'm figuring it all out, I have an ego that is fed by my insecurity, but I'm in an industry that by its nature creates insecurity because there is almost no difference in performance of what a "good" analyst and a "bad" one does? In other words, you don't have to "do" anything, but if you talk a big game from what I've seen, you are a "good" analyst! Um, teacher? Can I change my answer? I would like to be a Fireman now... What it's too late? Don't get me wrong, I love my job, but I certainly wouldn't if I took myself too seriously, if I didn't have fun with it all, trust me I know a lot of unhappy campers. Often times, it drives them to feed their insecurities by doing things better, they are constantly trying to be the best, to satisfy the insatiable, it is kind of like drinking water when you are hungry, it doesn't' work. Have you ever heard about the long hours on Wall Street? You can read these people like a book in my opinion, this is what they are doing but, then maybe that is my ego talking. Hmmm, I'm confusing myself. Ego, pride, arrogance, you know and I know that I'm better than you so... Ummm will you do me a favor? I don't know how to ask it, but, uh, can you, will you please tell me that its true? Because, honestly I'm not sure. Screw it, every time you tell me, I just increases my hunger for it, I guess I'll go put somebody down or attack somebody for no reason or at least fill my head full of useless facts and big words to tell them. By-the-way, I have always thought that you were stupid anyway. I thought this was a surf blog...
Whatever, take off your white wig... in the water, on land, puff that chest out you are insecure. Use big words when you don't need to, you are insecure. Don't let a guy get a wave that disrespected you, you are insecure. Do nothing, you are insecure. Don't fight back, you are insecure. Fight back like a rabid dog, you are insecure. So, if you have not figured it out yet, what I'm saying is that we are all insecure, it just manifests itself in different ways. However, there are different degrees of insecurity, and once again, that is not the point, the point is that ego is inversely correlated with insecurity. Being nice to people for no reason, treat them with respect for no reason, then you'll be turning insecurity on its head, you'll be breaking down the formula that drives you, you'll be breaking down primal human nature. Remember, if you have a reason for respecting someone, you are not being selfless. In other words, if you have something to gain, then it is about you, and that my friend is that little voice trying to shovel more ego into the insecurity furnace. But if you do it for no reason, then you are letting go of that insecurity, you are climbing down from the totem pole and trust me, it'll make you happier. It dawned on me out in the water today, I had a couple of good waves and I struck up a conversation with somebody who was just learning. The dude was just random, but he was so stoked to talk to me, he must have suddenly felt included out there. I definitely do not do this enough, but I bet that if I opened up these conversations a bit more, it would result in more respect and more waves, which is typically the goal of having stink-eye in the first place. The real upside is just to be human, since life exists in our interactions, a result of having respect is that both sides benefit from this general kindness, which is both selfish and selfless if you want to talk about paradoxes...
Waves were fun, I had a legit 3-turner. Trying to link turns, having fun doing that. I'm looking forward to tomorrow as the H1N1 seems to be subsiding slightly. I hope there will be waves. It was about chest high with some morning sickness, but pretty solid, not mushy at all. I like that, it fits my style.
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
Day 133 - Dog as a Sick
Some fun ones out there today. I was sick though so... Well, it probably didn't matter much anyway. I was surfing well, however. Whatever...
Things got me down lately. Just how life is I guess. Surfing frees me from that, you know, that whole life thing. I don't know why people don't treat people well. I don't know why people think they can "get away with one". I don't know why the inequality of luck exists... But, what I do know is when I get caught up in questions like that, I'm much less happy than go lucky.
I'm reading the book "Blink" right now by Malcolm Gladwell, it is good. I read "The Tipping Point" prior and that is an amazing one. He's a very good writer. Anyway, in Blink, he talks about how athletes don't even know what they do most of the time. It is split second, so they make assumptions about what they do, but it is not what they actually do. He gave the example of Vic Braden analyzing tennis players and how they say that they "roll" their wrists just as they hit the ball. This is not true, they roll there wrists after they hit the ball on the follow through. It is a good point, but what is funny is how tennis coaches teach (or at least used to), rolling the wrist as some sort of functional mechanism. Just think about it for a second. They could not roll their wrists or the ball would end up in the net! It would imply that you'd have to open your wrist first. It makes no sense, the racket has to be flat or you would have to play on a ladder...
Surfing is exactly the same way. One time Damo told Tom how to crank a turn. I might have this wrong, but I think he said something like, "Go faster". Yeah, no shit. The dude probably has no clue. I've figured out all of the mechanics to surfing. I've made strides because of it. But, I'm no pro. I would put money that I could talk circles around the top 44. But there is no "dream tour" for surf mechanics debates. Why do I say this? Because this book "Blink" introduces the term "Thin Slices", making decisions at an instant, reading the court in basket ball, reading a wave in surfing. There is nothing here, I just thought it was interesting. When it comes to thin slices, as a surfer, I'm deli meat. You see, it has to do with instantaneous judgements about people as well, more conventionally called prejudices, but they don't have to be conscious thoughts, we do most of it subconsciously. Try one out, you'll see... Harvard IAT Tests Oh, yeah and if you ever want to know how Slater does it... Well I can talk you through it, but walking you through it, well that's another story or three.
Oh yeah, Tom Servais called me today. He said that he might have a few pics of me at cloudbreak. He down played them as marginal, I cannot tell what that means, since he's a hall-of-fame surf photog... I'll be stoke to see them in any event.
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Day 132 - Shark/Whale Sightings in MB!!!
Just to be clear the two first are purported to be real... Mine is too, but my encounter was with a whale so... Just a little different - it is the last one. Shark Sighting Link
Manhattan Beach — On July 21, 2009 Asher Ehsani was surfing El Porto, Manhattan Beach. It was 4:30 PM and he had been on the water about one hour. Air and water temperatures were estimated in the mid-70s and 60s Fahrenheit, respectively. Water was about 9 feet deep with a sandy ocean bottom and a 3 – 4 foot swell. He was about 100 yards from shore when 2 Sea Lions swam past him at a distance of 5 feet. Ehsani reported; “I was surfing El Porto for about an hour when I noticed a few Sea Lions swimming by me. I didn't make anything of it. About 20 minutes later I noticed a HUGE shark, I am 100% confident it was NOT A DOLPHIN. I have been surfing for years, and encountered many dolphin. What I saw was a giant Dark Blue/Black Shark AT LEAST 12 feet in length it was probably about 50 feet away from me. Its dorsal fin was approximately 20 inches high and the tail was about 15 inches out of the water. I was waiting for the next set of waves with 15 other surfers. I immediately left the scene, reported it to the lifeguard. He kind of brushed it off seeming like he didn't want to scare anyone. In the last week I have encountered more sharks in SOCAL then I have in the last 10 years. It seems that sharks are feeding here a lot more than they were before.” Please report any shark sighting, encounter, or attack to the Shark Research Committee
Manhattan Beach — On July 12, 2009 Jamie Tyndall reported the following; “I saw my first shark today at Manhattan Beach, while surfing between 35th and 30th Streets. The dorsal fin popped up about 25 feet from the line up and coasted for about 30 feet heading South towards the Manhattan Beach Pier. The dorsal fin was about 2 feet high, dark blue-black in color, and had nicks (missing pieces) in the trailing edge of the fin. THIS WAS NOT FLIPPER. I have seen many Dolphins, even have had them tag me on my board and had the pleasure of them swimming around me blowing water out of their blow holes. This thing was big and it wasn't a Dolphin. It was a large shark and it was putting out a bit of a wake as well. It moved very straight and fast, 30 – 40 feet at the surface before diving. It was kind of funny that none of the surfers that saw it, including myself, left the water. We all just stared at each other in disbelief. I do have to say that I was in total awe.” Please report any shark sighting, encounter, or attack to the Shark Research Committee.
Manhattan Beach — On July 17, 2009 Mike Olson was surfing El Porto, Manhattan Beach. It was 7:30 AM and he had been in the water for about 90 minutes. Air and water temperatures were estimated in the mid-70s and 60s Fahrenheit, respectively. The water was about 12 feet deep with a sandy ocean bottom and a 4 – 5 foot swell (double to triple overhead). He was about 150 yards from shore when 2 Kooks swam past him at a distance of 1 foot. Olson reported; “I was paddling out just in front of the 34th life guard tower; there has been a pretty fun sand bar there over the last few weeks. The water was warm and the waves were really fun. I had just caught a pretty long left, that I did 3 turns and closed it out with a floater. As I was paddling back out, I saw what appeared to be a deep water boil about 50 yards in front of me, which was a bit confusing because I have lived in Manhattan beach for 9 years now and I was completely unaware of any large structures straight out from that lifeguard tower. I really thought nothing of it and preceded to back-paddle the other 5 surfers that were sitting on the peak. What happened next defies description. A set wave came and the other 5 surfers on the peak all dropped in on each other, so it was just me sitting out the back with another perfect wave coming! I started paddling for it, but all-of-the-sudden, a huge sperm whale ate me! So I was inside the whale with some sailors and other stuff that the whale had eaten, when I got the idea to light a match so that I could see in the dark. I saw his tonsils (all slimy and stuff) and I realized that I had some pepper handy so I flicked it into the air, making him (the whale) sneeze. He sneezed and blew me out into a perfect wave, I pulled right into a 12 second barrel and kicked out just before hitting the rocks at hammerland (about 950 yards). I have been surfing all my life, but that was the first time that I had to use the old pepper-to-make-a-whale-sneeze trick.” Please report any whale sighting, encounter, or attack to the Whale Research Committee.
By-the-way, the swell is gone but I had some fun wind swell waves this morning. I rode my small wave board. Back to no leash and mellow waves...
Manhattan Beach — On July 21, 2009 Asher Ehsani was surfing El Porto, Manhattan Beach. It was 4:30 PM and he had been on the water about one hour. Air and water temperatures were estimated in the mid-70s and 60s Fahrenheit, respectively. Water was about 9 feet deep with a sandy ocean bottom and a 3 – 4 foot swell. He was about 100 yards from shore when 2 Sea Lions swam past him at a distance of 5 feet. Ehsani reported; “I was surfing El Porto for about an hour when I noticed a few Sea Lions swimming by me. I didn't make anything of it. About 20 minutes later I noticed a HUGE shark, I am 100% confident it was NOT A DOLPHIN. I have been surfing for years, and encountered many dolphin. What I saw was a giant Dark Blue/Black Shark AT LEAST 12 feet in length it was probably about 50 feet away from me. Its dorsal fin was approximately 20 inches high and the tail was about 15 inches out of the water. I was waiting for the next set of waves with 15 other surfers. I immediately left the scene, reported it to the lifeguard. He kind of brushed it off seeming like he didn't want to scare anyone. In the last week I have encountered more sharks in SOCAL then I have in the last 10 years. It seems that sharks are feeding here a lot more than they were before.” Please report any shark sighting, encounter, or attack to the Shark Research Committee
Manhattan Beach — On July 12, 2009 Jamie Tyndall reported the following; “I saw my first shark today at Manhattan Beach, while surfing between 35th and 30th Streets. The dorsal fin popped up about 25 feet from the line up and coasted for about 30 feet heading South towards the Manhattan Beach Pier. The dorsal fin was about 2 feet high, dark blue-black in color, and had nicks (missing pieces) in the trailing edge of the fin. THIS WAS NOT FLIPPER. I have seen many Dolphins, even have had them tag me on my board and had the pleasure of them swimming around me blowing water out of their blow holes. This thing was big and it wasn't a Dolphin. It was a large shark and it was putting out a bit of a wake as well. It moved very straight and fast, 30 – 40 feet at the surface before diving. It was kind of funny that none of the surfers that saw it, including myself, left the water. We all just stared at each other in disbelief. I do have to say that I was in total awe.” Please report any shark sighting, encounter, or attack to the Shark Research Committee.
Manhattan Beach — On July 17, 2009 Mike Olson was surfing El Porto, Manhattan Beach. It was 7:30 AM and he had been in the water for about 90 minutes. Air and water temperatures were estimated in the mid-70s and 60s Fahrenheit, respectively. The water was about 12 feet deep with a sandy ocean bottom and a 4 – 5 foot swell (double to triple overhead). He was about 150 yards from shore when 2 Kooks swam past him at a distance of 1 foot. Olson reported; “I was paddling out just in front of the 34th life guard tower; there has been a pretty fun sand bar there over the last few weeks. The water was warm and the waves were really fun. I had just caught a pretty long left, that I did 3 turns and closed it out with a floater. As I was paddling back out, I saw what appeared to be a deep water boil about 50 yards in front of me, which was a bit confusing because I have lived in Manhattan beach for 9 years now and I was completely unaware of any large structures straight out from that lifeguard tower. I really thought nothing of it and preceded to back-paddle the other 5 surfers that were sitting on the peak. What happened next defies description. A set wave came and the other 5 surfers on the peak all dropped in on each other, so it was just me sitting out the back with another perfect wave coming! I started paddling for it, but all-of-the-sudden, a huge sperm whale ate me! So I was inside the whale with some sailors and other stuff that the whale had eaten, when I got the idea to light a match so that I could see in the dark. I saw his tonsils (all slimy and stuff) and I realized that I had some pepper handy so I flicked it into the air, making him (the whale) sneeze. He sneezed and blew me out into a perfect wave, I pulled right into a 12 second barrel and kicked out just before hitting the rocks at hammerland (about 950 yards). I have been surfing all my life, but that was the first time that I had to use the old pepper-to-make-a-whale-sneeze trick.” Please report any whale sighting, encounter, or attack to the Whale Research Committee.
By-the-way, the swell is gone but I had some fun wind swell waves this morning. I rode my small wave board. Back to no leash and mellow waves...
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