What a day.

You know how people are always trying to get somewhere?

Day 123 - Take 2

Surfed all afternoon. For some reason they left a pretty good chunk of beach allocated to surfers today. The weather hot and the water warm, the beach was packed with inlanders crowding out the surfers. So there were only a few people that live around here and beginners in the water where they were allowing surfers. It was pretty funny, because the swim part of the beach was packed and the surf part was empty. I trunked it for a solid 2 hours there was quite a bit more swell in the water than I had expected. Pretty fun. The only time that I lost my board all day, it was right on the surf/swim line and it pretty much ran over about 10 kids that were just on the wrong side. Nobody, was hurt, but still was pretty funny. The lifeguard handed me my board. Those dudes have their hands full. You know the drivers on the road that do not have a clue? Yeah, you know the ones and you just shake your head? OK, well at least they have driven before... In this case, you put thousands of people into the water that don't have to pass a test first, you mix in waves and you have a recipe for disaster. All day the life guards are running up and down the beach keeping people safe. I don't think I could do it.

Got some fun waves this afternoon, a couple of really good rights. Had it to myself until some clown started crowding me for no reason. I don't get it, I never will. People are generally idiots and then you have exceptions. I'll probably be a grumpy old man. Good times anyway.

Side note:

Lutrell said I look like Nick Nolte on his DUI arrest picture... Funny, I posted that earlier this week.

Day 123 - Crowded but bigger.

I was on my game. It was fun for sure out there. Wind swell peaks at about stomach high. No leash and risking it today, but I did not lose my board once. I think I'm just getting used to grabbing on to it if I'm going down. But, a side effect of this is that I'm doing things more under control and it is cutting down on my stupid mistakes. The biggest plus is not having that thing throw down a hog tie on the set waves, which murphy says always happens. The crowd was a little more amped this morning, I wasn't having it, if I hadn't seen somebody before, I gave them no respect. I guess, it is just necessary when surfing in the Jungle. It is so dangerous out there when it is that crowded and when the crowd averages about 1 summer of surf experience. Panic is everywhere boards get jettisoned in the most indescribable places. Anyway, still fun. I wish that I was still out there.

Nice day!

Little waves + warm water = a lot of fun

Day 122 - So crowded, It was small.

I some how ended up in the middle of a big group of soft top surf schoolers. I just surfed as I always do, I wasn't mean, but I did push a couple of people over who were obliviously dropping in on me. Nobody could surf out there. Which brings up the "epicenter theory". Is it he quality of waves or the level of talent that brings about better surfers? This is a discussion that happens a lot. I think it is more related to the epicenter. In other words, the more good surfers there are around, the more likely you will be good. Yes, I guess, waves are a requirement, but then why do the best surfers in the world come from Florida? It makes no sense. Bad waves + good surfers = the best surfers. Pushing the limits in slop, is tough, but it makes it so much easier when you actually do surf good waves. The point of this is that there were no good surfers out there today, so I probably did not improve...

Knee high and clean wind swell. I surfed my short board.

She just said "tripindicular"... The stuff that is on TV during the weekends. I don't know how it ended up on this channel, but I'm into it now. It also fits with the theme as there were certainly a bunch of Val Surfers out there today.

I may go surf some more slop now... Not feeling like working right now. I work a lot, not always for my day job though.

Day 120 - Even Smaller. How is that possible?

In between goofing around and having a good time, sometimes I like to surf. I thought yesterday was small! Today, I was riding, well let's just call them waves for lack of a better descriptor, they were micro! I did manage to catch a bombing knee high wave and with all the pressure to perform, well I fell off the side of my 10 footer. It was glassy and the water was warm, I think a SUP would have been the call out there today. This guy would have been stoked: TheLittleGuy. Anyway, still a good time, still a good way to start my day.

120 / 30 = 4 is that true? I've been surfing every day for 4 months? Wow! The thing about it is that life flies by so fast, but these last 4 months have gone by exceeding slow as they have been packed so full of experiences and such a good time. You should try it sometime, you know doing what makes you happy...

Day 119 - Small, Very Small...

Clean wind swell at about ankle to knee high prevailed today. It called for a long board a 10 footer at that. I had fun still, that is just how surfing is. Ankle high to triple over head, I have a smile on my face. When it's bigger, that's when I put my serious look on.

The crew this morning had to double take as I have not been on the mal (aussie for long board) for a long time. Good times are had on the journey... The destination is always waiting.

I was afraid this would happen...

I did not want my site to become an outlet for posting funny haircuts...

But, what am I going to do?

Reader contributions:

Happy B-day Pops!

My Dad's Birthday today! I hope it is a great one!

Forecast...

Umm?

Day 118 - Home Stretch

Small wind swell prevailed again today. Clean conditions made if fun and I was surfing fairly well. I went for it a couple of times and almost pulled some big tail slides, but just barely losing my balance a the end. I feels good to be back on my game. I cannot wait for tomorrow, for real swell or even this afternoon. I'm not sure how many days I'll take it to, but I doubt 126 will be the end of this streak...

Day 117 - Finally loosening up...

Wind swell, my favorite kind of swell for Porto. The pace of it, the randomness, you stay on your toes and find some gems. I had 3 rights that I let loose on - caught about 15 waves total. Wow! That felt good! My Komp loves to release on this kind of shit. My back is still bothering me, but it loosened up enough to transfer some real power to my back foot for a good tail slide or two. I'm back in the game, now its time to count my blessings and get back on the program. Hot Yoga tonight is the call - not looking forward to it at all! The first one is the toughest one.

Day 115 - Toughest 2 days yet

Hot summer fun. Well, it should be anyway. But my back is jacked up. It is weird, a little more like my neck is screwed up. Anyway, I got out there an caught 3 last night, but I was in so much pain that I think I was probably turning white. I have been icing my back all day and I'm ready to head out and get 3 again, just to keep the streak alive. I'm so close to reaching to my goal, but it could slip away if my back doesn't get better. We'll have to see after today.

Right now it is about waist-to-chest high with quite a bit of afternoon breeze on it. I'm not concerned about he waves... Just getting it into the books is what I'm concerned about. After, I'm looking forward to a beer and UFC 100 at Summer's. Should be a good time as long as my back is not completely seized up.

No Surf Yet - Will have to surf after work.

Back is still bothering me. Not sure what to do about it. Hot Yoga? Maybe tomorrow. The waves looked really fun though, with glassy conditions and waist to chest high with good shape.

Day 113 - 3 and out

I suddenly have a problem with my neck. Almost bad enough to threaten the streak... I made it though, the waves were so good. I just caught 3 very short ones to log a day. I'm going to start updating again, no matter how short they are. Such a nice day...

Closing in on my goal of 126. I don't know where I'll stop, but probably not at 126. It is just too fun!