Thursday, April 16, 2009
Day 29 – Apriluary
This is going to be a short post as will the posts for the next few days - I’m headed out of town for the weekend. Hopefully, I’ll post something from my phone over the weekend. Today was a little weird, as the waves were generated primarily from very short period wind swell. For some reason, and I’m not sure why, this translated into some pretty dumpy peaks. It was necessary to utilize the initial speed boost for a quick turn or a cutback. I had a couple of pretty good waves, both rights and lefts, but by the end of the session I was hindered by very numb feet. The water is January cold right now which is pretty uncharacteristic of April, but it is a direct result of all of the upwelling caused by the wind over the past few days. Even colder though was the sand, which absorbed the unusually cold air temperature (you could see your breath) resembling snow in appearance and feel (it was wind blown smooth again today). Walking on the asphalt after receiving frostbite from the sand was very painful requiring a very slow and calculated walk. I don’t know why, but when your feet get that cold it truly feels like the ground is tearing them apart and your mind begins to visualize the little pebble under your heel causing irreparable damage. Thinking about it now, I still feel a chill in my feet, even though that was 4 hours ago. The wind blew so hard over the past 36 hours that it actually started to pile up mini dunes wherever there is a fixed object and the beach now has a noticeable incline with parking lot serving as a backstop. Maybe it is good for the waves, I don’t know, I’m always an optimist with regard to change. Forecast is predicting that it is going to be some time before we get waves again (I checked it because I'm going out of town), so I guess it was a really good run while it lasted. I’m still looking forward to day 29…
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
Day 28 - 3 to the beach (ABAIG)
As Bad As It Gets - I woke up this morning at about 4am in anticipation. I thought that I had a chance for an epic session. I even iced my back for 15 minutes at about 4:30. I fell back to sleep, but then woke up at about 6:00 and stumbled to the window, cleared my eyes and it was obvious that today would be a tough one. The wind had been on it all night, there were whitecaps and the waves were very consistent with pretty good size. I couldn’t take it! I went back to bed. I got up just before 7am, suited up and I started my reluctant walk down at about 7:05 following some badgering from Jason (I could see that he was enjoying the prospect that I’d have to go out there). I knew I had to go! 20 minutes was cutting it close on this day (I have to get out of the water by 7:30 to make be sure to make the 8am bus). The beach had been blown almost perfectly flat as it only had a few lonely tracks across a Sahara sand rippled surface – who knows where these people end up, it was a very inhospitable scene. I noticed down the beach a competition tent with a bunch of people huddled around in hoodies looking out at the foamy soup. What a bad day to have a contest! What a joke, these people should have canceled; I can almost guarantee that the best surfer did not win out there. Anyway, this gave me inspiration as I had 20 minutes to get 3 waves and the competitors probably did as well (maybe 15 minutes – depending on the contest format). So, I went out, but my heat was lonely. I almost didn’t make it out! There were waves everywhere, at one point I was not even paddling, just duck diving wave after wave. The wind swell interval seemed like it was about 3 seconds or so. I spent about 5 of my 20 minutes getting out there and I got pounded by a few large waves. It was very lonely sitting out there as the water was dark and the undulations caused me to lose sight of both the shore and the oncoming waves with regularity. I knew nobody was watching me, so I felt truly on my own. Now just get 3 waves! I caught 2 lefts and a right. I made feeble effort at a frontside turn on one of my waves. But, in general it was just survival. The wind was probably blowing cold at 20 miles per hour and the water was even colder from the previous night’s upwelling (a result of the wind). It was downright miserable. I did it and I’m glad for that, but I’m also glad that it was brief. My feet froze and the hurried walk back up to my apartment stung the numbness. I’ve surfed some pretty bad days, but this was very close to the top of that list of undesirable sessions. I hope day 28 is better!
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
Day 27 – COD?
a) Crack of Dawn
b) Cash on Delivery
c) Call of Duty (the 4th installment is the best video game ever)
d) Claim or Don’t
e) None of the above
I’m so stoked! It is a weird occurrence in sports when you get into the zone. I’ve been there in basketball, tennis, ping pong and of course surfing. Things slow down; the most minor adjustments come natural but are so critical to your performance. You know you're starting to hit your stride in surfing when you drop in and fade for a turn (turn the wrong way at first) and then bottom turn (go the other way) into a perfectly timed gouge – there is no margin for error, you know it and don’t think twice about it. Little adjustments to the way you're bending your knees, where your weight is, the positioning of your arms results in fluidly timing turns, maximizing efficiency in every movement. You're reacting with lightspeed and you don't even know you're reacting until after the wave is over and you have a second to think back at how you felt, you realize that some critical adjustments made the difference between surfing optimally and falling. It is interesting how many intangibles there are in surfing (or at least they seem like intangibles – they are not really, just hard to see). A good example is to look at the difference between the technique of a very good surfer and a kook, the subtle differences are sometimes not apparent to the naked eye (usually they are, however). When they are not, it is hard to pinpoint the reason one surfer goes really fast and turns without effort in the most critical spots and the other flails. Jason and I saw the latter occur yesterday. On a perfect left, a guy dropped in, we anticipated something special, we waited for the action, but then we both winced in disgust as the ugly reality of a wasted wave pained us. His effort reflected desire, but his technique was left behind by his mind’s eye. This happens a lot and the realization that it happens to you as well typically occurs the first time you see yourself on video. You realize how much of a kook you really are. You are sure that each turn is perfect and that you are one step below a pro, that sponsors are probably waiting for you on the beach, that other surfers watch you in awe, but have a look at the video man, it tells a different story. Arms are flying everywhere; you cannot believe how slow you are going, and what about that turn? It was ugly! Back to the drawing board…
So, with that introduction as a disclaimer, let me go through my most memorable experience that I had today. I had one wave in particular that doubled up (the wave is artificially thick as it is the combination of two waves) and a guy outside had just missed it so I turned and dropped in backside. I had plenty of time to set up for my bottom turn, which faded against the grain allowing me to fully wind up, wrapping my trailing arm around my body like a spring. This set me in position to unload underneath the lip with my body perfectly positioned over my board. Wow that felt good! I over-extended my turn, technically completing about 270 degrees resulting in a slide that was as out-of-control as my skills will allow, nudging up against disaster (blowing the wave) ever so softly, I was still at the top of the wave. As physics would have it, this position requires an air drop to get back into the transition part of the wave. This is what happened and I landed in control. To my surprise, I took one pump and was going very fast. The on coming white water was asking for my fins, I obliged throwing a have stalled rock-in-roll to complete the wave – a bit of a safe move, but I wasn’t going to blow it at this point. I have to admit it. There is not much better than that. Barrel, yep, but that is about it. I mean, I cannot stop thinking about how high I get when things just click out there. That’s why so many people surf. That’s why I’ve been doing it for 24 years. That’s why I wake up in the dark, put a wet wetsuit on and walk blindly down to the water’s edge. That’s why I do a surf streak. How many seconds did that all take? I would guess, front to back, less than 15. I’ve done a lot of things, but those 15 seconds take the cake. It is just too damn rewarding and yet, the question remains: did that tree just fall in the forest? The weirdest thing about surfing is that it does not matter. In this case, somebody saw the tree fall, but the anonymous kid didn’t change things much. It is certainly better if somebody sees it, especially one of your bros, but the marginal benefit (of a friend seeing it) is very small. I could feel the kid in front of me, he was looking at me, he wanted to give his approval for the ride, but I looked down at my board, turned it around and paddled back out. I almost never look up in those cases. It is not cool to admit to yourself or anyone else that this was not just business as usual.
And now the point of today’s entry: let’s talk about the claim, YOU DON’T DO IT. Now there are times where emotion gets the better of you and you claim a wave. The definition of a claim is basically a fit of emotion that signifies to the external world your satisfaction with your own accomplishment. YOU DON’T DO IT! If somebody sees you claim a wave that is not worth claiming, well you can't live that one down. You become a claimer, which is a bit derogatory. You’ll hear claiming jokes for the rest of your life. Things like, “Wow, way to open that door! Why don’t you claim it?” or “Dude you just parallel parked your car. Are you going to get out, throw your hands in air and claim it?” or “Way to put cream cheese on that bagel. Come on man just claim it!” Yeah, you don’t want to be claimer, so it is best to never claim. The interesting thing about claiming a wave is that it is your body’s natural reaction to want to release all of that emotion, and sometimes there is just so much adrenaline running through your system that you can almost explode by repressing a claim. But, once again, DO NOT CLAIM YOUR WAVE. The best answer is: d) Claim or DON’T.
b) Cash on Delivery
c) Call of Duty (the 4th installment is the best video game ever)
d) Claim or Don’t
e) None of the above
I’m so stoked! It is a weird occurrence in sports when you get into the zone. I’ve been there in basketball, tennis, ping pong and of course surfing. Things slow down; the most minor adjustments come natural but are so critical to your performance. You know you're starting to hit your stride in surfing when you drop in and fade for a turn (turn the wrong way at first) and then bottom turn (go the other way) into a perfectly timed gouge – there is no margin for error, you know it and don’t think twice about it. Little adjustments to the way you're bending your knees, where your weight is, the positioning of your arms results in fluidly timing turns, maximizing efficiency in every movement. You're reacting with lightspeed and you don't even know you're reacting until after the wave is over and you have a second to think back at how you felt, you realize that some critical adjustments made the difference between surfing optimally and falling. It is interesting how many intangibles there are in surfing (or at least they seem like intangibles – they are not really, just hard to see). A good example is to look at the difference between the technique of a very good surfer and a kook, the subtle differences are sometimes not apparent to the naked eye (usually they are, however). When they are not, it is hard to pinpoint the reason one surfer goes really fast and turns without effort in the most critical spots and the other flails. Jason and I saw the latter occur yesterday. On a perfect left, a guy dropped in, we anticipated something special, we waited for the action, but then we both winced in disgust as the ugly reality of a wasted wave pained us. His effort reflected desire, but his technique was left behind by his mind’s eye. This happens a lot and the realization that it happens to you as well typically occurs the first time you see yourself on video. You realize how much of a kook you really are. You are sure that each turn is perfect and that you are one step below a pro, that sponsors are probably waiting for you on the beach, that other surfers watch you in awe, but have a look at the video man, it tells a different story. Arms are flying everywhere; you cannot believe how slow you are going, and what about that turn? It was ugly! Back to the drawing board…
So, with that introduction as a disclaimer, let me go through my most memorable experience that I had today. I had one wave in particular that doubled up (the wave is artificially thick as it is the combination of two waves) and a guy outside had just missed it so I turned and dropped in backside. I had plenty of time to set up for my bottom turn, which faded against the grain allowing me to fully wind up, wrapping my trailing arm around my body like a spring. This set me in position to unload underneath the lip with my body perfectly positioned over my board. Wow that felt good! I over-extended my turn, technically completing about 270 degrees resulting in a slide that was as out-of-control as my skills will allow, nudging up against disaster (blowing the wave) ever so softly, I was still at the top of the wave. As physics would have it, this position requires an air drop to get back into the transition part of the wave. This is what happened and I landed in control. To my surprise, I took one pump and was going very fast. The on coming white water was asking for my fins, I obliged throwing a have stalled rock-in-roll to complete the wave – a bit of a safe move, but I wasn’t going to blow it at this point. I have to admit it. There is not much better than that. Barrel, yep, but that is about it. I mean, I cannot stop thinking about how high I get when things just click out there. That’s why so many people surf. That’s why I’ve been doing it for 24 years. That’s why I wake up in the dark, put a wet wetsuit on and walk blindly down to the water’s edge. That’s why I do a surf streak. How many seconds did that all take? I would guess, front to back, less than 15. I’ve done a lot of things, but those 15 seconds take the cake. It is just too damn rewarding and yet, the question remains: did that tree just fall in the forest? The weirdest thing about surfing is that it does not matter. In this case, somebody saw the tree fall, but the anonymous kid didn’t change things much. It is certainly better if somebody sees it, especially one of your bros, but the marginal benefit (of a friend seeing it) is very small. I could feel the kid in front of me, he was looking at me, he wanted to give his approval for the ride, but I looked down at my board, turned it around and paddled back out. I almost never look up in those cases. It is not cool to admit to yourself or anyone else that this was not just business as usual.
And now the point of today’s entry: let’s talk about the claim, YOU DON’T DO IT. Now there are times where emotion gets the better of you and you claim a wave. The definition of a claim is basically a fit of emotion that signifies to the external world your satisfaction with your own accomplishment. YOU DON’T DO IT! If somebody sees you claim a wave that is not worth claiming, well you can't live that one down. You become a claimer, which is a bit derogatory. You’ll hear claiming jokes for the rest of your life. Things like, “Wow, way to open that door! Why don’t you claim it?” or “Dude you just parallel parked your car. Are you going to get out, throw your hands in air and claim it?” or “Way to put cream cheese on that bagel. Come on man just claim it!” Yeah, you don’t want to be claimer, so it is best to never claim. The interesting thing about claiming a wave is that it is your body’s natural reaction to want to release all of that emotion, and sometimes there is just so much adrenaline running through your system that you can almost explode by repressing a claim. But, once again, DO NOT CLAIM YOUR WAVE. The best answer is: d) Claim or DON’T.
Monday, April 13, 2009
Day 26 – Monday Fun Day is Better than Sunday
This one is also going to be short. The waves were very good this morning. The string waves we have been getting lately have been impressive. We scored some uncrowded punchy peaky little barrels this morning, which included a few head high waves, but cylinders all around given the low tide and offshore winds. Jay has been having problems with his back so he rode the fun gun. I was on the compressor and I caught a number of good waves. I had the first wave this streak where I completed 3 solid frontside turns without a hitch. Really laid into each one, it really felt good to be controlled and on top of these turns. I drove into work today so I stayed out extra long. I picked a good day to drive in! I’m really fired up right now. I have already exchanged texts with Jay, reconfirming how good it was out there.
Sunday, April 12, 2009
Day 25 – Where’s my egg?
This post is going to be very short. I got on it pretty early today with Jason as it is Easter Sunday and I figured the crowd would get thick quick. I’ll admit it; I was very tired out there after a number of good and long sessions over the previous days and I did not surf very well. However, I think with all of the surfing I’m starting to get my first step back. The first step is how fast you are able to come out of the gate – the pop up into the first pump. This allows you a lot more range when it comes to taking off late. You want to be a strong paddler to increase you range with regards to getting in early, but a good first step can really help with taking of late. Translation: You can catch more waves and make it around more sections. It is pretty key for surfing a beach break all the time. Quick session today, but the weather was amazing, the waves were very good. The crowd got holiday-heavy very quick and that’s when I called it, I could use the rest and I know that Mondays are always a better bet.
Saturday, April 11, 2009
Day 24 - AGAIG
Session 28
As Good As It Gets. Today was silly, the boys were frothing, the waves were insane. El Porto is one of the few places that can turn wind swell into barrels. The combination of a deep water canyon, consistent early morning offshore winds and bathymetry that is pronounced allow this transformation to happen.
Jay got out there earlier than I did so I got the report from the trenches when he got out. He said that it was good and that the guy that we saw in Indo was out there. Big John (because he's a little guy) was amped. Jay had warned me that he would be. He got a left barrel in front of me that was silly. I mean comic book silly, directly from the pages of my 8th grade science class notebook (I got banished to the back tables so I really worked on my wave drawings). He pulled high and tight into a vicious cylinder, locked in pig dog drawing a line that was perfect. Still, I was sure that there was no way he'd come out, he did. That set the tempo. The wind swell/ground swell combo was so consistent that the boys barely had a moment for Saturday morning stink eye. Waves everywhere and they were the real deal, boards fluttering, bodies bouncing, arms flailing and a looks of stoke on everyone's face.
So I went up to John and let him know that I witnessed the left and he was stoked. He said, "I've had like 12 of those! I haven't turned yet, there are some kegs out here!" And the dude can turn, but he was clearly only hunting for barrels. The best quote was as follows, "I haven't surfed waves this good since Bali and that was 8 months ago. The only other time was that west when I went to the Ranch, but it was crowded, so this is better." I agree with him. That session today was epic. El Porto does not get epic much, but it provides surf about 360 days a year, so I cannot complain.
My session? Barrels, turns, a pitch or two, a guillotine and some wicked cutbacks. I was stoked out there. I rode the Double D and I'm glad that I had - I was able to use its speedometer a number of times. You see, I have a few boards with speedometers, a result of a slightly misplaced fin, which causes it to hum when a certain velocity is reached. I had it humming a lot today! I had gone out on Friday night, so I was a little slow to start, but nothing a little adrenaline couldn't overcome. I'm still stoked. The amazing thing is how much this stoke translates into regular life. Who needs Prozac? Just surf every day.
Friday, April 10, 2009
Day 23 - Good Friday and I mean GOOD!
Don't jinx my session! Oh wait, it worked in my favor this time. This is going to be short post as I have to get back to my editing bay! I have a lot to learn in order to get ramped up on my Mac. In my last post I wrote that the waves would probably be terrible today given the prospect for rain and wind, which was a certainty according to everyone who knows such things. When I woke up I went to my usual window to check it. It didn't look as bad as I thought it would! Jason made the comment that he would sit this one out and he was definitely serious (more opposite jinx). I was slow to get moving but as I did, he could not handle the possibility that I would tell him about MY session later in the day, so reluctantly he went along with the preparations. We walked down the hill and It initially looked walled but there is a hole just in front of the 40th street lifeguard tower. The deep spot was allowing a left to consistently break as we approached the water's edge. After some argument about whether or not this was really the case (I'm an optimist and he's a pessimist when it comes to waves), Jason reluctantly agreed with me that there was some potential out there. The waves were overhead on the sets and packing a solid punch. As we were paddling out, I don't know what we were talking about, but Jason suddenly was at a loss for words as he zeroed in on something over my shoulder and then convulsed into an uncontrollable release of emotion that resembled the cross between a scream an a yell. Alarmed, I looked in the direction that caused his reaction and there was a guy locked into a perfect barrel! He shot out and then proceeded to demolish the lip with a very controlled backhand snap. Few things out in the water can cause this kind of reaction, but seeing a guy in a barrel just forces it out of you. Seeing a shark might be another (I've only seen one that could hurt me and I think I started yelling). That set the tone for the session. I started off with a floater and then a barrage of snaps. I surfed for about 2 1/2 hours today and I really felt good out there. Yet another example of why it is necessary to get up and go surfing without trying to figure it all out beforehand. I would never have gone out there today if it wasn't already a forgone conclusion. I cannot wait to get back out there tomorrow, which is a problem because it probably will not be good now!
Thursday, April 9, 2009
Day 22 – Lucky 22’s
Session 26
Normally 22 may not seem like a lucky number. If you are staring down the barrel of a 22, it is probably a bad thing, if you get 22 in blackjack, it is a bad thing and if you find yourself in a “catch-22” well it is hard to find any good in that. So why is it my lucky number? For one thing, when I went searching for a lucky number I had heard that somebody had already taken the number 7…
My story is a bit boring, but I’ve been asked about it a number of times, so I’ll tell it. I chose it for “my” number in 6th grade, when for some reason I had a rash of occurrences of the number 22. It had to be my number! Simply put, it was far too unlikely for this number to show up five out of six times in a random unscientific sampling of a six grader’s life, my number had to be 22! We’ll after the fact; I realized that the only one that seemed to be random was my locker number. The others, while not significantly probable, were also not significantly unlikely either given that my last name begins in the letter “O”. This is because these numbers that came up 22 were primarily related to the role sheets in my classes at that time, which were ordered alphabetically. So 22 is probably some sort of statistical mean on a list for last names beginning with “O” when it is attached to another statistical mean of a particular class size which can statistically be proven to be a valid statistic if class size is static. Oh sorry, I got a little carried away. Anyway, my take (which I am required to give on every subject) is that most of the time statistics are just a function of humans trying to put meaning to a number of random events. Translation: “BS” and not the Bachelor of Sciences kind of BS either. All of that said, lucky or not, 22 continues to be “My” number and I would not trade numbers with anyone. Of course, I do think it is better than other numbers, ok actually I know it is. Why? There is something very symmetrical and simple about this number. 2 is the first chance for symmetry in the Arabic numeral system, which comes in the form of the inherently symmetrical “even number”. Furthermore, two 2’s is more symmetrical than a single 2 as the single version only has a single numeral and thus contains an odd property. 44 is symmetrical as well, but why go all the way to 44, when I can have this symmetry at 22? Also, there is something generic about 44. Yeah, Dirty Hairy went a long way to popularize the number 44, but the fundamental qualities of 44 fall apart under greater scrutiny. The same can be said about any other double numbers – they really just do not have the same originality of their sibling 22.
The Surf on Lucky 22:
The surf was really fun! Jason made the point to me that he would prefer waves like that over the long period ground swell type of wave that is often associated with a “Good Swell”, and I completely agree. The waves were overhead on the sets which were generated primarily by short period wind swell. This is great because it affords you the opportunity to catch a lot of waves in a short period of time and the cost of screwing one up is negligible because it is possible to go right back out and catch another. Yes, the waves are shorter but the aggregate number of turns will easily eclipse those days where the waves are from a “good swell”. This morning the wind was offshore, but the ocean was still pretty mixed up from the harsh onshore wind that we had yesterday (the cause for the waves). So the faces of the waves were glassy but there was quite a bit of “shiftiness” out there. So fun! There was nobody out and plenty of good waves, that’s the right combo. Jason had some really good ones and he was very excited about returning to surfing. He had already trend-lined his progress in his head to figure out when he would make it back to peak surf shape. I think it was his first wave, which was right in front of me, he logged some travel time in a surprise barrel, so the enthusiasm is easy to understand - there is something indescribable about being in a barrel. Me? I had some really good waves as well and I surfed them fairly well - I had a blast out there! I really need to start working on my core strength however. My back was still bothering me a little bit. I had one really memorable left on which I competed two solid turns with the second one being a tail slide layback where I stood up out of the whitewash to complete it. It was a great session as we were on it early and got to surf for about an hour and ten minutes. Tomorrow is Good Friday, but the weather is supposed to be dicey (rain and wind)! This serves as yet more confirmation of why 22 is right choice of numbers for me! Hopefully, I just opposite-jinxed it for tomorrow, I don’t think so though.
Normally 22 may not seem like a lucky number. If you are staring down the barrel of a 22, it is probably a bad thing, if you get 22 in blackjack, it is a bad thing and if you find yourself in a “catch-22” well it is hard to find any good in that. So why is it my lucky number? For one thing, when I went searching for a lucky number I had heard that somebody had already taken the number 7…
My story is a bit boring, but I’ve been asked about it a number of times, so I’ll tell it. I chose it for “my” number in 6th grade, when for some reason I had a rash of occurrences of the number 22. It had to be my number! Simply put, it was far too unlikely for this number to show up five out of six times in a random unscientific sampling of a six grader’s life, my number had to be 22! We’ll after the fact; I realized that the only one that seemed to be random was my locker number. The others, while not significantly probable, were also not significantly unlikely either given that my last name begins in the letter “O”. This is because these numbers that came up 22 were primarily related to the role sheets in my classes at that time, which were ordered alphabetically. So 22 is probably some sort of statistical mean on a list for last names beginning with “O” when it is attached to another statistical mean of a particular class size which can statistically be proven to be a valid statistic if class size is static. Oh sorry, I got a little carried away. Anyway, my take (which I am required to give on every subject) is that most of the time statistics are just a function of humans trying to put meaning to a number of random events. Translation: “BS” and not the Bachelor of Sciences kind of BS either. All of that said, lucky or not, 22 continues to be “My” number and I would not trade numbers with anyone. Of course, I do think it is better than other numbers, ok actually I know it is. Why? There is something very symmetrical and simple about this number. 2 is the first chance for symmetry in the Arabic numeral system, which comes in the form of the inherently symmetrical “even number”. Furthermore, two 2’s is more symmetrical than a single 2 as the single version only has a single numeral and thus contains an odd property. 44 is symmetrical as well, but why go all the way to 44, when I can have this symmetry at 22? Also, there is something generic about 44. Yeah, Dirty Hairy went a long way to popularize the number 44, but the fundamental qualities of 44 fall apart under greater scrutiny. The same can be said about any other double numbers – they really just do not have the same originality of their sibling 22.
The Surf on Lucky 22:
The surf was really fun! Jason made the point to me that he would prefer waves like that over the long period ground swell type of wave that is often associated with a “Good Swell”, and I completely agree. The waves were overhead on the sets which were generated primarily by short period wind swell. This is great because it affords you the opportunity to catch a lot of waves in a short period of time and the cost of screwing one up is negligible because it is possible to go right back out and catch another. Yes, the waves are shorter but the aggregate number of turns will easily eclipse those days where the waves are from a “good swell”. This morning the wind was offshore, but the ocean was still pretty mixed up from the harsh onshore wind that we had yesterday (the cause for the waves). So the faces of the waves were glassy but there was quite a bit of “shiftiness” out there. So fun! There was nobody out and plenty of good waves, that’s the right combo. Jason had some really good ones and he was very excited about returning to surfing. He had already trend-lined his progress in his head to figure out when he would make it back to peak surf shape. I think it was his first wave, which was right in front of me, he logged some travel time in a surprise barrel, so the enthusiasm is easy to understand - there is something indescribable about being in a barrel. Me? I had some really good waves as well and I surfed them fairly well - I had a blast out there! I really need to start working on my core strength however. My back was still bothering me a little bit. I had one really memorable left on which I competed two solid turns with the second one being a tail slide layback where I stood up out of the whitewash to complete it. It was a great session as we were on it early and got to surf for about an hour and ten minutes. Tomorrow is Good Friday, but the weather is supposed to be dicey (rain and wind)! This serves as yet more confirmation of why 22 is right choice of numbers for me! Hopefully, I just opposite-jinxed it for tomorrow, I don’t think so though.
Wednesday, April 8, 2009
Day 21 - I'll take 4 lefts and 3 rights to go please!
Session 25
I was pretty limited on time, because I was up late last night. I'm still trying to get my computer situation fixed and then I was chatting it up with my temporary roommate until about midnight. I had to go pick up my laundry from the laundromat this morning (I'm a big proponent of the economics of fluff & fold) as I'm out of clothes. The result of all of this is about 20 minutes of surf time! So, I ran down jumped in and caught my quota. But, before I get into that, I'd like to shine some light on the inner workings of the hamster wheel that I call my head. I was struck by lightning yesterday when an idea (stupid goofy one) for a short video made its presence known to my peanut (probably had been waiting its turn in the subconscious queue for some time). While I admit the idea is nothing special (most aren't), once it grips me, I cannot shake it. In a previous post (Ice-Ice-Ice Baby), I had mentioned the term grom-stoke, well, this is very similar. Spontaneously most of my frontal lobe/hippocampus shut down and remain in a "Sleep Mode" until some level of completion is reached or something else grips the attention, usually the latter. Why do I say all of this? Because this morning, I could not find my briefcase (I use it to shuttle useless papers to and from work - useless because I rarely look a them) and it became apparent that most of my memories from about the time I had my "IDEA" to the point where I could not find my briefcase this morning had been deleted! Apparently somebody had drag-and-dropped them right into the trash (I'm becoming familiar with this new Mac term). This is a time & memory black hole, where the density (gravitational pull) of the idea acts to suck memories into its core - they simply cannot escape and thus are never heard from again. These hamster wheel physics are certainly responsible for the wide variances in the perception of time that occur between a task that we like and one that we don't like. When you are struck with an idea or enjoy doing something immensely, time almost disappears! My proposition is that it is not the time that is disappearing, it is the memory of the time that is being condensed into a single euphoric sample (details disappear real time!). A good example would be to think about how painful it is to watch the clock while doing something you don't like (a boring class or anything where times seems to halt in conjunction with discomfort) contrasted with the inability to slow time while doing something you truly love, something that is engaging. Initially, I had the hypothesized that there were times (when bored) where we actually spontaneously began to travel at near light speeds, thus slowing time (and perceived pain) down according to Einsteins relativity theory, but this theory is now defunct.
So what happened? With my memory deleted, I started to think that the focus on my idea, had completely shut my gray-matter-CPU down and that I left my briefcase on the bus yesterday. Fortunately for me, habits and instincts took over and I did in fact carry it home. I found it just in time to run down and make the bus (the bus was late anyway). But, when I got on the bus, I noticed something peculiar, my suit jacket did not match my suit pants! With most of my brain not functioning, it is easy to understand how this occurred. It is also easy to understand why I leave things all over my apartment in disarray. It is a little like a unified theory of Mike - it can be used to explain everything that I do.
Surfing:
Today I caught 7 waves. It was not glassy, but not windy either. There was a little morning sickness on it, but it was overhead on the sets and the shape was pretty good at the Rosecrans sandbar. My first 4 waves, I attempted exaggerated turns and fell on each of them. But on my last 2 waves, I was able to complete 2 solid turns in the critical section of the wave. I was surfing by myself, there were a few people out probably at about 42nd street. I'm so glad I got out there. Ah, if only someone would push the power button on my brain - I could use it for my day job...
I was pretty limited on time, because I was up late last night. I'm still trying to get my computer situation fixed and then I was chatting it up with my temporary roommate until about midnight. I had to go pick up my laundry from the laundromat this morning (I'm a big proponent of the economics of fluff & fold) as I'm out of clothes. The result of all of this is about 20 minutes of surf time! So, I ran down jumped in and caught my quota. But, before I get into that, I'd like to shine some light on the inner workings of the hamster wheel that I call my head. I was struck by lightning yesterday when an idea (stupid goofy one) for a short video made its presence known to my peanut (probably had been waiting its turn in the subconscious queue for some time). While I admit the idea is nothing special (most aren't), once it grips me, I cannot shake it. In a previous post (Ice-Ice-Ice Baby), I had mentioned the term grom-stoke, well, this is very similar. Spontaneously most of my frontal lobe/hippocampus shut down and remain in a "Sleep Mode" until some level of completion is reached or something else grips the attention, usually the latter. Why do I say all of this? Because this morning, I could not find my briefcase (I use it to shuttle useless papers to and from work - useless because I rarely look a them) and it became apparent that most of my memories from about the time I had my "IDEA" to the point where I could not find my briefcase this morning had been deleted! Apparently somebody had drag-and-dropped them right into the trash (I'm becoming familiar with this new Mac term). This is a time & memory black hole, where the density (gravitational pull) of the idea acts to suck memories into its core - they simply cannot escape and thus are never heard from again. These hamster wheel physics are certainly responsible for the wide variances in the perception of time that occur between a task that we like and one that we don't like. When you are struck with an idea or enjoy doing something immensely, time almost disappears! My proposition is that it is not the time that is disappearing, it is the memory of the time that is being condensed into a single euphoric sample (details disappear real time!). A good example would be to think about how painful it is to watch the clock while doing something you don't like (a boring class or anything where times seems to halt in conjunction with discomfort) contrasted with the inability to slow time while doing something you truly love, something that is engaging. Initially, I had the hypothesized that there were times (when bored) where we actually spontaneously began to travel at near light speeds, thus slowing time (and perceived pain) down according to Einsteins relativity theory, but this theory is now defunct.
So what happened? With my memory deleted, I started to think that the focus on my idea, had completely shut my gray-matter-CPU down and that I left my briefcase on the bus yesterday. Fortunately for me, habits and instincts took over and I did in fact carry it home. I found it just in time to run down and make the bus (the bus was late anyway). But, when I got on the bus, I noticed something peculiar, my suit jacket did not match my suit pants! With most of my brain not functioning, it is easy to understand how this occurred. It is also easy to understand why I leave things all over my apartment in disarray. It is a little like a unified theory of Mike - it can be used to explain everything that I do.
Surfing:
Today I caught 7 waves. It was not glassy, but not windy either. There was a little morning sickness on it, but it was overhead on the sets and the shape was pretty good at the Rosecrans sandbar. My first 4 waves, I attempted exaggerated turns and fell on each of them. But on my last 2 waves, I was able to complete 2 solid turns in the critical section of the wave. I was surfing by myself, there were a few people out probably at about 42nd street. I'm so glad I got out there. Ah, if only someone would push the power button on my brain - I could use it for my day job...
Tuesday, April 7, 2009
Day 20 - Rainy Afternoon
I got out there and it started raining pretty hard. The amazing thing is that I caught about 10 waves. At first I was not sure if I was going to catch 3! But, I caught a few fun ones. This is going to be a short post as I'm working on a multimedia project. I should be good! I will document Day 20 with video. Hopefully, I can get it done quick. I'm starting to tinker my way through learning Final Cut Pro as I have switched video editing platforms from PC to Mac. I was using Avid Express Pro. I think I'm going to like FCP, but it will take some time to learn.
Oh boy - No surf yet today!
I had meetings and calls today in the AM. It is supposed to rain tonight! The waves will not be good, but I have to get out there this afternoon. This is why I like to knock out the sessions early. It definitely causes a bit of anxiety.
Decision making of a commitment:
I was invited to go to Vegas in May... No. Can't do it. The streak takes precedence... That is how commitment is supposed to work. Most of the time, however I am not that committed to things, but in this case there was no hesitation. I guess that is why I like this quote: Commitment Quote. I can be taken off course by work or an injury, but that's about it right now. I'm getting in the water for 126 days straight otherwise. That is what I'm setting out to do and that is what I'll do.
Decision making of a commitment:
I was invited to go to Vegas in May... No. Can't do it. The streak takes precedence... That is how commitment is supposed to work. Most of the time, however I am not that committed to things, but in this case there was no hesitation. I guess that is why I like this quote: Commitment Quote. I can be taken off course by work or an injury, but that's about it right now. I'm getting in the water for 126 days straight otherwise. That is what I'm setting out to do and that is what I'll do.
Monday, April 6, 2009
Storm is Brewing!
Tanya just told me that we are going to get some rain! This might be a problem! Hopefully, we'll get a lot and it will help to dig some holes in the sand out there.
From Wetsand:
From Wetsand:
Today (Sunday) we have a light mix of NW and SW swell along the California coast with AM offshore conditions that'll repeat again Monday. Tuesday sees some Aleutian NW come into the mix, but rain is expected by nightfall (Wed. AM at the latest), leaving midweek in less than favorable conditions. Some light WestPac WNW swell is due Thursday into Friday, but weather models show another possible slug of precipitation around this time as well. In either case, the second half of the week will have some moderate southern hemi SW in the water -- shame though, as weather models don't paint a pretty picture, even going into the weekend.
Day 19 - 5 in 48
Five surf sessions in 48 hours... I'm tired but, I think I'm turning the corner. Icing my back seems to be working OK and while my paddle is not full strength, I'm not thinking about it much anymore. This morning however, I was stiff. Had a fairly short session as I made the earlier bus. It was small and glassy with only a few spots working (where there are sand bars). I got out there and I saw John, he's the guy that me and Jason saw in Indonesia on one of our trips. He's a very good surfer. Anyway, he and I traded waves for a while (remember it's Monday, so the crew is slow to trickle out there). He definitely got the best waves. It was about waist to stomach high, really feathery, but with perfect shape. My back was a little stiff, so it inhibited my quite a bit, which was a little bit of a downer after the session I had last night. That's OK though, I still got some fun ones. The highlight of the session was a dolphin nearly clipped John as he paddled for a wave! It was so close, it might have even jumped over his leg! I'm not sure. I asked him if he saw it and he said no. This was no baby either. Anyway, I told him about it and he said...
Important Update: I just had 45 minutes of my life time-burgled* away.
Back to our regularly scheduled program:
he is not a big fan of dolphins as one time he was hit by one and another broke his board. He said it was a big day and that the dolphin just got mixed up or something. These stories are somewhat of an urban legend as I've been hearing them for some time. Actually, another guy told me a similar story - he had his board broken by a dolphin. The most I've ever had is a flipper of a dolphin slap my foot as he went underneath me. I guess it's possible, I've just never seen it.
I caught some fun waves and got out early because of my back and my general physical lethargy. When I got back, Jay showed up shortly after me. It turns out, he cannot stand to miss out! That's good.
*The Time Burglar - a person who corners you in your office or some other location where there is no easy exit and proceeds to link extended monologues together, sometimes initiating a fight or flight mechanism that is very similar to claustrophobia. This why it is always important to have some cyanide pills handy. Very painful.
Important Update: I just had 45 minutes of my life time-burgled* away.
Back to our regularly scheduled program:
he is not a big fan of dolphins as one time he was hit by one and another broke his board. He said it was a big day and that the dolphin just got mixed up or something. These stories are somewhat of an urban legend as I've been hearing them for some time. Actually, another guy told me a similar story - he had his board broken by a dolphin. The most I've ever had is a flipper of a dolphin slap my foot as he went underneath me. I guess it's possible, I've just never seen it.
I caught some fun waves and got out early because of my back and my general physical lethargy. When I got back, Jay showed up shortly after me. It turns out, he cannot stand to miss out! That's good.
*The Time Burglar - a person who corners you in your office or some other location where there is no easy exit and proceeds to link extended monologues together, sometimes initiating a fight or flight mechanism that is very similar to claustrophobia. This why it is always important to have some cyanide pills handy. Very painful.
Sunday, April 5, 2009
Day 18 - It takes one to know one...
Session 22 (my lucky number - that is why I'm portosurfer22)
The title refers to a comment that Jason made on the way to the beach.
Had an amazing second session! Fish everywhere, glassy, sunny, warm, with decent waves. I had a great time out there. I saw my neighbor Chris out - he's a cool guy. Also saw a guy who surfs really well, his name is Nick, he's from Santa Cruz, I've been seeing him out there for years. Actually, I also saw him this morning as well. While I was out there, I could not help but think how fortunate I really am. Living at the beach, everything within reach and days like today are just so special, no worries about the upcoming work week, I just spent the entire day enjoying life. I love it.
The tide was a little high, but I was able to redeem myself a little from the earlier session as I had a number of waves that I completed very controlled and fast turns on. I surfed pretty well tonight. It was about chest high and most of the waves that I caught were lefts. We managed to time it right as the low tide walls waned in favor of mid tide shoulders. As I mentioned before there were fish out there, so it was only a matter of time before the predators showed up. Dolphins and a sea lion were not very far behind. The the fish were splashing and causing the dolphins to go into a frenzy. I think that they go after the fish in the waves, maybe because the can accelerate and the fish get confused (I've watched the discover channel). Anyway, one other thing that the dolphins do is splash the water really hard with their tails. Maybe this stuns the fish, I don't know. It is pretty amazing to share the space with those guys.
The title refers to a comment that Jason made on the way to the beach.
Had an amazing second session! Fish everywhere, glassy, sunny, warm, with decent waves. I had a great time out there. I saw my neighbor Chris out - he's a cool guy. Also saw a guy who surfs really well, his name is Nick, he's from Santa Cruz, I've been seeing him out there for years. Actually, I also saw him this morning as well. While I was out there, I could not help but think how fortunate I really am. Living at the beach, everything within reach and days like today are just so special, no worries about the upcoming work week, I just spent the entire day enjoying life. I love it.
The tide was a little high, but I was able to redeem myself a little from the earlier session as I had a number of waves that I completed very controlled and fast turns on. I surfed pretty well tonight. It was about chest high and most of the waves that I caught were lefts. We managed to time it right as the low tide walls waned in favor of mid tide shoulders. As I mentioned before there were fish out there, so it was only a matter of time before the predators showed up. Dolphins and a sea lion were not very far behind. The the fish were splashing and causing the dolphins to go into a frenzy. I think that they go after the fish in the waves, maybe because the can accelerate and the fish get confused (I've watched the discover channel). Anyway, one other thing that the dolphins do is splash the water really hard with their tails. Maybe this stuns the fish, I don't know. It is pretty amazing to share the space with those guys.
Day 18 - Ice-Ice-Ice Baby (The Return of the Kook)
Session 21The first ice refers to the effectiveness of icing my back to alleviate the pain that I'm having. It really is helping! The second ice is referring to the two blocks that are attached to my ankles that still claim to be my feet (should have worn booties today). The third Ice Baby refers to my younger years when I used to spit rhymes in the underground clubs of the OC. Back when I was a teenager with a little bit of gold and a pager... sorry, I digress.
The return of the kook - I had too many good titles for today. So as I always do, I run down to the edge of the water and if the waves are good, I get that child-like giddiness (aptly named grom-stoke*). So, I have my grom-stoke going, I'm accelerating across that warm sand as I'm approaching the water. I notice a peak down that beach with nobody on it, even accelerate more, I cannot wait to get out there. My grom-stoke is in full effect, my back is feeling good, the wind is offshore, the air is warm (summer like), I cannot wait. With grom-stoke going, most of your mental capacity is shut down. This is when it happens... Sometimes your leash can be your best friend (I know mine has saved my life a few times) and sometimes it can be your worst enemy (anywhere from the classic hog-tie**, to getting hooked on a reef - very dangerous), but mostly a leash is a good thing. Not today! I was running at full steam and that's when my feet got caught up, instantaneously transforming both my legs into the center leg in a potato sack race. It turns out that you need two legs to run! Board in hand, I'm skidding on my face right at the edge of the water, on a crowded day (it was warm and about 10 o-clock, so there were people all around). To someone watching, it would have been hillarious! Not on my end though, embarrased, I got up and acted like nothing happened, no look back toward the beach as that would have acted to acknowledge that fact that I had just eaten a bunch of sand. Kook #1. This is a vid that Tom sent to my in an email titled "Olson in Indo" Funny Vid This is a link to the video, it is really funny. So, I have righted myself, brushed it off as nothing has happend, my grom-stoke was fading, but I'm still going to get out there. I get back up and begin running, into the water, with the water about ankle deep, I take a step into a hole and I go down again! This time in about knee to ankle deep water so I try to brush it off by paddling. It didn't work, the water was too shallow. Kook #2. So now I'm out in the water, the wind is offshore, the waves have good shape and I'm having a good time. This is when I try to paddle into a great wave. I'm excited, but I have clear a paddler directly in front of me. The wind pushes me up the face, I cannot get into the wave! I get pitched! I held onto my board, but some how I avoided hitting the guy paddling in front of me. Kook #3. I saw Tommy and Ben out there and Tommy made fun of my day-glow board. I agree, if you are going to kook out like I did, you better not have a memorable board.
I had a number of good waves out there - very fun none-the-less.
I had a number of good waves out there - very fun none-the-less.
*Grom-stoke is a term that I use to describe a state of agitation that occurs when a surfer loses his or her mind due to an extreme excitement over surfing. It could be a good session that sends the surfer into this state. The term grom comes from the word grommet. See the definition below. The point is that no matter what the age of the surfer is, the state can occur sending the surfer back into a frenzied state of a grom. From About.com:
Definition: A young surfer. While it seems that being called a "grommet" would be derogatory, in fact, most surfers wish they still had that grommet perspective of the world. For the most part, grommets are boy and girl surfers younger than 15 years old.Pronunciation: graw-metAlso Known As: Grom, Gremmie, GremExamples: After school let out, the lineup as packed with grommets.
**The hog tie, typically happens on the best wave of the day. This is when you stand up and you leash is rapped around both legs causing you to stand up on your board with a very narrow stance. It would better if you just fall. However, this is generally not the case as you struggle to half-surf a good wave. You are then required to paddle back out and explain to all of your buddies what happened. It turns out that surfers never like to hear excuses, if you blow a wave, it is just that a blown wave, excuses are like... everyone has one. Something like that. When in Rome...
Saturday, April 4, 2009
Day 17 - Two Birds in the hand...
is better than one in the bush. I like those sayings. But, what I like more is screwing them up. When in Rome...
Sessions 19 and 20
We got out there 2x today. One very early, which was a bad call for sure. It got a lot better as the tide dropped. But, I was stuck trying to figure out how to work my new computer. I'm a nerd... I should've gone back out there at about 10am. That was when it looked really good. The early (7am or so) session was pretty slow, hard to get into the waves, but I still caught a few fun ones. Jason was on the fun gun again, he had the right board, as the tide made the waves somewhat mushy and the strong offshore winds made it really difficult to go once on the wave. I saw him turn his board a couple of times like it was a short board (it's 7'2"). I had a couple of good cut backs, but it was crowded so it really was not a long session. Always a good time though!
The next session, Jason and I surfed by ourselves in the afternoon (1pm). There was a little wind on it, but it was still really fun. It seemed like it had picked up quite a bit and we were surfing it drained out (very low tide). At first it seemed really walled, but we both caught a few very fun waves, probably some head high waves out there, but with a lot of power given the low tide. It was Jason's first time on a board other than the fun gun, he rode his compressor, I think it is 5'11" or something. I was pretty surprised as he had a couple of very nice turns.
I came back in and met up with Warren and Lutrell to watch the Final Four. Michigan St. and NC one, both Warren and I lost our pool.
The next session, Jason and I surfed by ourselves in the afternoon (1pm). There was a little wind on it, but it was still really fun. It seemed like it had picked up quite a bit and we were surfing it drained out (very low tide). At first it seemed really walled, but we both caught a few very fun waves, probably some head high waves out there, but with a lot of power given the low tide. It was Jason's first time on a board other than the fun gun, he rode his compressor, I think it is 5'11" or something. I was pretty surprised as he had a couple of very nice turns.
I came back in and met up with Warren and Lutrell to watch the Final Four. Michigan St. and NC one, both Warren and I lost our pool.
Friday, April 3, 2009
Day 16 - Bumpy and Cold
Short post today... My back and knee are really sore, I think I need to get back on the rehab circuit in the gym. It probably did not help that I just got a new computer and I spent about 5 hours last night hunched forward as I was installing and configuring. Anyway, I was able to get out there, I had a few turns, but my body was not all that happy about it. Mostly my back, which is not a new problem. The two things that have helped a lot over time are Yoga/Stretching and Core work. I have done some of the yoga, but not much core work. I think that is what is missing, I think that is why it is so stiff (my back is not being supported when I torque it). I think that is what I'll do this weekend: go to the gym and work on my computer. I cannot wait to start producing some real video! I don't know why I like to edit video, but I do.
Not many people out there today, the waves were really pretty bad, but I think if I were healthy, I would have really liked it. I like to surf junk, especially because there is nobody around. Also, you never know what a wave is going to throw at you, which provides some good opportunities for turning in some random places. I think that this kind of training actually sharpens the timing a lot more than surfing perfect waves.
Michael sent me a pic of two guys on tours snaking in reference to Day 14 - Confusion, from some contest. Thanks Michael!
Tim, made the point that the door is open for me to break the consecutive days surfing record. Here is a link that Tim sent me, which is pretty funny (thanks Tim!) : http://www.surfingmagazine.com/news/surfing-pulse/030104_webster/
I cannot figure out if this guy is crazy or just really funny! Probably both.
Here is the excerpt from SurfingMagazine.com, in case the link does not work someday:
I don't think I'll beat his record. Today was a tough go, see the video that I took as I was walking to the bus:
Not many people out there today, the waves were really pretty bad, but I think if I were healthy, I would have really liked it. I like to surf junk, especially because there is nobody around. Also, you never know what a wave is going to throw at you, which provides some good opportunities for turning in some random places. I think that this kind of training actually sharpens the timing a lot more than surfing perfect waves.
Michael sent me a pic of two guys on tours snaking in reference to Day 14 - Confusion, from some contest. Thanks Michael!
Tim, made the point that the door is open for me to break the consecutive days surfing record. Here is a link that Tim sent me, which is pretty funny (thanks Tim!) : http://www.surfingmagazine.
I cannot figure out if this guy is crazy or just really funny! Probably both.
Here is the excerpt from SurfingMagazine.com, in case the link does not work someday:
Sharks. Crowds. Kidney stones. 55-year-old Dale Webster has faced them all in his attempt to surf more consecutive days than any other human in history. Since 1976, Webster's barely left Sonoma County's Dillon Beach and Salmon Creek in order to maintain his streak -- drawing reactions from ridicule to reverence -- but the surfing world has always made a point of following his Quixote-esque quest, from a SURFING interview in '76 to a segment in Dana Brown's big-screen hit, Step into Liquid. And now, after 28 and a half years of daily sessions of at least three complete waves, the mission is over. On February 29, Webster officially called it quits, stopping on the magic number of 10,407 days in a row. Surfingthemag caught up with "Daily Wavester" just prior to this momentous occasion to find out: why such a strange number? What made him decide to stop? And, perhaps the most important question: can he?
I don't think I'll beat his record. Today was a tough go, see the video that I took as I was walking to the bus:
Thursday, April 2, 2009
Day 15 - Road to recovery
Today was really fun! I got some really good waves, particularly some of the lefts that caught, I was able to do full cut backs on. I was on it at dawn, as I thought that the waves were going to be really good since last night the swell had picked up quite a bit. I'm not really sure what happened to the swell, as it was overhead last night, but it was still fun and it was probably about waist to chest high out there. While I'm certainly not 100%, and my back was feeling pretty stiff, I'm starting to get used to surfing everyday, I think I'm starting to recover a little. I guess three months of couch surfing doesn't really translate very well into real surfing. In the end, it is pretty hard to be fairly inactive for an extended period of time and then do something every day, such as surfing. However, I remember last time that I did this, it took about a month for my body to accept that I was just going to surf every day, a habit, kind of like brushing your teeth everyday or take a shower everyday (well maybe not everyday, but most days). I think I'm going to go to hot yoga again tonight and Friday, which should help with my stiffness, eventually. Being stiff, is certainly slowing me down a little bit as I had a couple of backhand waves where I was clearly a step is too slow. In other words, I would've made the waves and been able to complete a few turns, making it to the shoulder, which requires a quicker take-off and more drive down the line.There is a kid out there who I've watched grow up surfing, I think his name is Ken, but he was in a contest last week and so I asked him how he did and he said that he took second in the men's category and sixth in the juniors category which is very good for NSSA contest. I have to admit I was pretty surprised. He is a very good surfer, so I shouldn't be, but those are very good results.
When I got back to my apartment, I noticed that Jason had gone surfing as well, but he did not initially get up when I did. What he did, was that he went out there and caught three waves and then ran back up, thus technically completing a session. I'm always amazed at how far three waves will go throughout your day and how easy it is to accomplish this. However, it is very difficult to do when you are tired and under the covers because in the end, what is the difference between three waves and no waves? Well, it is a lot if you ask me as the rest of my day always goes a lot better if I have gotten a surf session - no matter how brief it is. I'll ask him tonight if he had a similar experience.
Wednesday, April 1, 2009
Day 14 - Confusion
Today the waves were really small, but clean again. I went to bed really late and when my alarm went off, I just shut it down. The pain of being tired and not wanting to do something was intense. Anyway, knowing that I don't want to think about having to surf in the afternoon, I rallied. To my surprise, Jason actually did to, I figured he was out of it today, since the only thing that had me in motion was my streak. As we were suiting up, Jason made the comment, "I don't even have to look at my wetsuit, I just pick it up and I know it isn't mine".
So we both really struggled to get moving and headed down the hill. Jay had the fun gun and I decided to roll with my longboard this morning. I also decided to surf without booties for the first time this streak. I really like the feeling a lot better. Booties bug. Anyway, as we are about to get in the water Jason looks over at me and says, "This is a large!", referring to the wetsuit. He was wearing my old suit! So, I guess what we can take from this that Jay cannot tell his wetsuit by just picking it up. Or, by putting it on. Or, by walking down to beach in it. But, he can tell that it is not his because mine has as hole in the knee and he felt the water rush in.
We paddled out late, but we still got our share of waves. I was on my 10'0" and having a blast. I saw Jason, attempt a full rail cutback that looked like he was going complete with ease, he was a little overzealous on the 7'2", It doesn't like that much. He bogged down and dug in. I had a couple of attempts to walk the nose, I managed to do it only once partially. But, I had forgotten how fun that board is. That happens every time. In the middle of the session, Jay looks over at me and tells me that my wetsuit is unzipped - confusion. I had felt some water going in but, I hadn't been inundated yet.
It is fun riding longboards. My final wave some clown tried to go right on a left that I was going on and I had to push him out of the wave. I never understand that crap. Just too much testosterone. Here is a picture of me getting snaked last summer and the guy actually said that it was his wave. And then all of his friends made fun of him, because it was obvious that he snaked me. The funniest thing about it is there was some kid on the beach taking pictures and one of his
friends (the guy that everyone was making fun of) emailed them to me - Funny.
So we both really struggled to get moving and headed down the hill. Jay had the fun gun and I decided to roll with my longboard this morning. I also decided to surf without booties for the first time this streak. I really like the feeling a lot better. Booties bug. Anyway, as we are about to get in the water Jason looks over at me and says, "This is a large!", referring to the wetsuit. He was wearing my old suit! So, I guess what we can take from this that Jay cannot tell his wetsuit by just picking it up. Or, by putting it on. Or, by walking down to beach in it. But, he can tell that it is not his because mine has as hole in the knee and he felt the water rush in.
We paddled out late, but we still got our share of waves. I was on my 10'0" and having a blast. I saw Jason, attempt a full rail cutback that looked like he was going complete with ease, he was a little overzealous on the 7'2", It doesn't like that much. He bogged down and dug in. I had a couple of attempts to walk the nose, I managed to do it only once partially. But, I had forgotten how fun that board is. That happens every time. In the middle of the session, Jay looks over at me and tells me that my wetsuit is unzipped - confusion. I had felt some water going in but, I hadn't been inundated yet.
It is fun riding longboards. My final wave some clown tried to go right on a left that I was going on and I had to push him out of the wave. I never understand that crap. Just too much testosterone. Here is a picture of me getting snaked last summer and the guy actually said that it was his wave. And then all of his friends made fun of him, because it was obvious that he snaked me. The funniest thing about it is there was some kid on the beach taking pictures and one of his
friends (the guy that everyone was making fun of) emailed them to me - Funny.Tuesday, March 31, 2009
Day 13 - Unlucky 13
Session 15
This morning I got out there right at dawn. It was a really cold morning with fairly strong offshore winds. However, the swell had dropped off dramatically since yesterday and was only about knee to waist high. The offshores however kept the shape fairly good even though the tide was very low and going lower. Jason pointed out to me that the longboard kid was wearing trunks and a neoprene top, which is insane because I was cold in a 4/3 wetsuit and booties. This is a kid that I've seen grow up over the last few years as up until this year he was basically a midget and now it's probably about 6 feet tall he's a really good paddler and it looks like he rides a fairly long board and catches everything. It was a good session for me to cut short as my back is still stiff and my arms are still tired so maybe I will get some rest today. I went to hot yoga last night again and it was brutal, but I'm glad I went. My biggest problem is that back then because I sit hunched forward all day and my back simply does not go that way. So as I work the flexibility into my back, it just stays sore. This makes surfing a pretty difficult task, however to ensure longevity I have to do it. So to summarize this session was not a very good one but I'm looking forward to tomorrow, which will be two weeks!
This morning I got out there right at dawn. It was a really cold morning with fairly strong offshore winds. However, the swell had dropped off dramatically since yesterday and was only about knee to waist high. The offshores however kept the shape fairly good even though the tide was very low and going lower. Jason pointed out to me that the longboard kid was wearing trunks and a neoprene top, which is insane because I was cold in a 4/3 wetsuit and booties. This is a kid that I've seen grow up over the last few years as up until this year he was basically a midget and now it's probably about 6 feet tall he's a really good paddler and it looks like he rides a fairly long board and catches everything. It was a good session for me to cut short as my back is still stiff and my arms are still tired so maybe I will get some rest today. I went to hot yoga last night again and it was brutal, but I'm glad I went. My biggest problem is that back then because I sit hunched forward all day and my back simply does not go that way. So as I work the flexibility into my back, it just stays sore. This makes surfing a pretty difficult task, however to ensure longevity I have to do it. So to summarize this session was not a very good one but I'm looking forward to tomorrow, which will be two weeks!
Monday, March 30, 2009
Day 12 - I'll hit that wall anytime...
More to follow. Going to the bus right now.
I've hit a wall studying, working out, working, traveling, snowboarding and I'm certain at various other times in my life. The anatomy of "hitting a wall", in my opinion, in its simplest form, can be conceptualized (for me at least) as: the benefit from doing something no longer APPEARS (you’ll understand the caps later) to offset the cost of doing it. In other words, the marginal benefit does not offset whatever the cost is (time/pain/exhaustion). So, where the cost crosses the benefit, we shut down. We quit. The inverse of this is almost certainly what happens in addicts, as for the most part, they know that what they are doing to their bodies is detrimental over the long term and they would choose not to have that long term outcome if they were in control. What happens in my opinion is that the cost of continuing the addiction (long term) does not match the benefit from continuing the addiction (short term), so it can continue indefinitely. I’ll call this a duration mismatch – benefit is short term, cost is long term. At some point, the short term benefit likely becomes the inverse of the cost after an extended period of time – so the short term benefit is simply avoiding the short term cost (withdrawals etc.) – the short term cost is then just lower than the long term cost as it is deferred. The benefit in this case is not having withdrawals. It is, in my opinion, summed up by the following statement: “I’ll start my diet on Monday”. Then on Monday, for some reason I don’t start my diet! This can be stopped by a choice (commitment to stop it - commitment is the key word here) or it will likely be halted when rock bottom is hit (the near term cost outweighs the near term benefit in this case.) Wait a second; did I just compare you (me) to a drug addict? Well, let’s just say that a heart attack will certainly change eating behaviors (rock bottom in the diet example). Thoroughly confused? I know that I’ll be when I reread this someday… The point here is that we are all addicts, whether it is chemical or not, it is part of being human. Now, it is very important to realize that the cost is made up in our heads (the only place reality exists - which in fact is not real at all - no wonder everyone is so screwed up!). Why is this important? Because we can CHOOSE not to be one – make our own reality!
To make my point about the realness of reality, I’ll use an example. I'm partially color blind, so I certainly don't see the colors that others see, yet it is as real as it gets in my head (some greens and grays are actually just different shades of the same color you know). Maybe, in fact, you color snobs are the real problem! So your green is no more real than my gray, it only exists in your head (and mine). Why do I make this point? Because I hit a wall this morning (it really started yesterday) and in my opinion, hitting a wall is a term that describes the distortion of reality that occurs in all of our heads. It is no more real than the gray tie than I’m wearing right now (green for you). I had been predicting that this would occur around Day 14, based on my recollection from my prior experience with my streak, but maybe I have been surfing more intensely this time.
The power of commitment:
So hitting the wall under normal circumstances results in a change of behavior to realign the short term cost / benefit relationship. In my case, more sleep would garner quite a bit more utility than throwing a cold damp wetsuit on in the dark, with no idea of what I’m going to get in return. Sleep would certainly be much better than that! Armed with two pieces of knowledge, I chose to put my wetsuit on anyway. 1) I know I have to surf every day (commitment) and it is much better to get it out of the way earlier as to avoid having to worry about it all day and 2) I know that it is an undeniable fact that the least crowded day, without exception is always Monday. So, even though I hit the wall, commitment is what drives action, not feelings (made up stories/excuses – not reality). The story I had going this morning was, “My back is sore, it is cold outside, the tide is low (could be walled), my wetsuit is wet, I have to pick things up because my housekeeper is coming today, etc. etc.”
Today:
Obviously you know what is coming by now. I made it out there based on commitment and nothing else. It was the best day of surfing yet. I was a little hobbled by a sore back, stiff knee and tired arms, but the waves were so good that it really did not matter. It reminded me of low-tide river jetties when I was a kid. Sucking barrels with the bottom dropping out from underneath of your board – you either go real fast out there or you don’t go at all. I surfed my double concave (double D, is what it is called I think), this board goes really fast down the line, but it does not like to turn without speed (a function of the double concave is that it is hard to get it on rail without speed). So, I learned it the hard way again today (got stuck in the lip and pitched – going too slow). But, then I was able to unload on number of waves. My last wave in particular, as it was a perfect left, which was offshore-groomed leading into a closeout barrel of a right about 50 yards down the line, about head high. I focused on getting a lot of speed with the perfect Newport-arm form and then set it on rail for a full wound up frontside bottom turn, with plenty of time and space, I let go, unwinding my bottom turn at the right time on the closeout barrel coming at me. With so much speed and so little weight on my board, I was able to get down off the lip before it collapsed onto the flats. I’m always amazed at how sometimes you can drop 5-6 feet off the top of the wave and not feel a thing, the transition is as smooth as silk. If I were to jump off of the cabinet that stares at me all day in front of my desk, I think I would hurt myself and it is only 3 feet high. Go figure…
So the waves were slightly overhead this morning, with offshore winds and low tide. El Porto does not get much better than that. All the regulars who surf really well were out, as a result of experience, I’m sure they know that Mondays are the day to go, especially when there is some swell in the water. All the weekend warriors are tired from competing in the weekly Surf/BBQ biathlons that are held up and down the coast every Sunday.
One other thing, before I forget. I saw a little sea lion out there. I’m sure he is the same guy that I used to surf with last year. Still just a baby, but he has put on a few pounds. Last summer he was a sardine hunter though, it looks like he weighs 50 lbs or so now.
I’m certainly not over the wall, but I know I’ll be back on it tomorrow – no matter what the cost.
I've hit a wall studying, working out, working, traveling, snowboarding and I'm certain at various other times in my life. The anatomy of "hitting a wall", in my opinion, in its simplest form, can be conceptualized (for me at least) as: the benefit from doing something no longer APPEARS (you’ll understand the caps later) to offset the cost of doing it. In other words, the marginal benefit does not offset whatever the cost is (time/pain/exhaustion). So, where the cost crosses the benefit, we shut down. We quit. The inverse of this is almost certainly what happens in addicts, as for the most part, they know that what they are doing to their bodies is detrimental over the long term and they would choose not to have that long term outcome if they were in control. What happens in my opinion is that the cost of continuing the addiction (long term) does not match the benefit from continuing the addiction (short term), so it can continue indefinitely. I’ll call this a duration mismatch – benefit is short term, cost is long term. At some point, the short term benefit likely becomes the inverse of the cost after an extended period of time – so the short term benefit is simply avoiding the short term cost (withdrawals etc.) – the short term cost is then just lower than the long term cost as it is deferred. The benefit in this case is not having withdrawals. It is, in my opinion, summed up by the following statement: “I’ll start my diet on Monday”. Then on Monday, for some reason I don’t start my diet! This can be stopped by a choice (commitment to stop it - commitment is the key word here) or it will likely be halted when rock bottom is hit (the near term cost outweighs the near term benefit in this case.) Wait a second; did I just compare you (me) to a drug addict? Well, let’s just say that a heart attack will certainly change eating behaviors (rock bottom in the diet example). Thoroughly confused? I know that I’ll be when I reread this someday… The point here is that we are all addicts, whether it is chemical or not, it is part of being human. Now, it is very important to realize that the cost is made up in our heads (the only place reality exists - which in fact is not real at all - no wonder everyone is so screwed up!). Why is this important? Because we can CHOOSE not to be one – make our own reality!
To make my point about the realness of reality, I’ll use an example. I'm partially color blind, so I certainly don't see the colors that others see, yet it is as real as it gets in my head (some greens and grays are actually just different shades of the same color you know). Maybe, in fact, you color snobs are the real problem! So your green is no more real than my gray, it only exists in your head (and mine). Why do I make this point? Because I hit a wall this morning (it really started yesterday) and in my opinion, hitting a wall is a term that describes the distortion of reality that occurs in all of our heads. It is no more real than the gray tie than I’m wearing right now (green for you). I had been predicting that this would occur around Day 14, based on my recollection from my prior experience with my streak, but maybe I have been surfing more intensely this time.
The power of commitment:
So hitting the wall under normal circumstances results in a change of behavior to realign the short term cost / benefit relationship. In my case, more sleep would garner quite a bit more utility than throwing a cold damp wetsuit on in the dark, with no idea of what I’m going to get in return. Sleep would certainly be much better than that! Armed with two pieces of knowledge, I chose to put my wetsuit on anyway. 1) I know I have to surf every day (commitment) and it is much better to get it out of the way earlier as to avoid having to worry about it all day and 2) I know that it is an undeniable fact that the least crowded day, without exception is always Monday. So, even though I hit the wall, commitment is what drives action, not feelings (made up stories/excuses – not reality). The story I had going this morning was, “My back is sore, it is cold outside, the tide is low (could be walled), my wetsuit is wet, I have to pick things up because my housekeeper is coming today, etc. etc.”
Today:
Obviously you know what is coming by now. I made it out there based on commitment and nothing else. It was the best day of surfing yet. I was a little hobbled by a sore back, stiff knee and tired arms, but the waves were so good that it really did not matter. It reminded me of low-tide river jetties when I was a kid. Sucking barrels with the bottom dropping out from underneath of your board – you either go real fast out there or you don’t go at all. I surfed my double concave (double D, is what it is called I think), this board goes really fast down the line, but it does not like to turn without speed (a function of the double concave is that it is hard to get it on rail without speed). So, I learned it the hard way again today (got stuck in the lip and pitched – going too slow). But, then I was able to unload on number of waves. My last wave in particular, as it was a perfect left, which was offshore-groomed leading into a closeout barrel of a right about 50 yards down the line, about head high. I focused on getting a lot of speed with the perfect Newport-arm form and then set it on rail for a full wound up frontside bottom turn, with plenty of time and space, I let go, unwinding my bottom turn at the right time on the closeout barrel coming at me. With so much speed and so little weight on my board, I was able to get down off the lip before it collapsed onto the flats. I’m always amazed at how sometimes you can drop 5-6 feet off the top of the wave and not feel a thing, the transition is as smooth as silk. If I were to jump off of the cabinet that stares at me all day in front of my desk, I think I would hurt myself and it is only 3 feet high. Go figure…
So the waves were slightly overhead this morning, with offshore winds and low tide. El Porto does not get much better than that. All the regulars who surf really well were out, as a result of experience, I’m sure they know that Mondays are the day to go, especially when there is some swell in the water. All the weekend warriors are tired from competing in the weekly Surf/BBQ biathlons that are held up and down the coast every Sunday.
One other thing, before I forget. I saw a little sea lion out there. I’m sure he is the same guy that I used to surf with last year. Still just a baby, but he has put on a few pounds. Last summer he was a sardine hunter though, it looks like he weighs 50 lbs or so now.
I’m certainly not over the wall, but I know I’ll be back on it tomorrow – no matter what the cost.
Day 12 - Prep
Rushing to get everything done so that I can get out the water! Mondays are almost always the best day for a light crowd. It is just a matter of whether or not there are waves.
Sunday, March 29, 2009
Day 11 - Fun but running out of Gas
Session 13
Today I woke up around 7 AM and went straight to hot yoga. Wow! I am very stiff and tired. Hot yoga in the mornings is very hard as your body is not naturally limber from moving around all day. This morning was particularly hard, I'm not sure why probably just because I am fairly worn out from surfing everyday. Anyway, it is much needed and I will continue to go. My goal is to go four times this week, but today counts as one. It seems to work the best when you go consecutively so I'm going to try to go tomorrow night as well. However, just like with the surf streak there is a point where it almost seems like it's doing your body harm instead of helping it, and I'm there now. My back is very stiff and my hamstrings are also very tight. Being stiff and tired makes it a little bit difficult to surf as it is hard to be very quick.
Today me and Jason got out in the water at about 10:30 AM, which was probably a pretty good time to get out there as the crowd was thinning and the wind was not yet a factor. We saw my downstairs neighbor Cliff and he got a really good wave right in front of us. The tide was on its way up which caused it to be a little bit of bowly as there was some size out there. So what happens is the wave does not feather and break slowly, it piles up and breaks all at once after it hits a shallow spot on the sandbar. There are some pretty deep holes out there so the waves would back off pretty quickly which required an immediate cutback off the whitewater to keep the velocity up. I had a couple really good cutbacks today. However, I really wasn't surfing up to par as my arms continue to be very tired and my back is very stiff. Jason got a couple of good ones on the fun gun and worked them all away to inside. He surfed without a leash and I saw them take one of the bigger waves of the day right on the head. That will get you in shape! I think it is session 5 or six for him and day 8 of sobriety. Stoked on that.
We had lunch at North End, we all got sandwiches. Pretty good.
This little video doesn't show you anything but at least it shows you how the weather was. It has been cloudy all day, with an occasional beam of sun breaking through. The water still pretty cold.
Today I woke up around 7 AM and went straight to hot yoga. Wow! I am very stiff and tired. Hot yoga in the mornings is very hard as your body is not naturally limber from moving around all day. This morning was particularly hard, I'm not sure why probably just because I am fairly worn out from surfing everyday. Anyway, it is much needed and I will continue to go. My goal is to go four times this week, but today counts as one. It seems to work the best when you go consecutively so I'm going to try to go tomorrow night as well. However, just like with the surf streak there is a point where it almost seems like it's doing your body harm instead of helping it, and I'm there now. My back is very stiff and my hamstrings are also very tight. Being stiff and tired makes it a little bit difficult to surf as it is hard to be very quick.
Today me and Jason got out in the water at about 10:30 AM, which was probably a pretty good time to get out there as the crowd was thinning and the wind was not yet a factor. We saw my downstairs neighbor Cliff and he got a really good wave right in front of us. The tide was on its way up which caused it to be a little bit of bowly as there was some size out there. So what happens is the wave does not feather and break slowly, it piles up and breaks all at once after it hits a shallow spot on the sandbar. There are some pretty deep holes out there so the waves would back off pretty quickly which required an immediate cutback off the whitewater to keep the velocity up. I had a couple really good cutbacks today. However, I really wasn't surfing up to par as my arms continue to be very tired and my back is very stiff. Jason got a couple of good ones on the fun gun and worked them all away to inside. He surfed without a leash and I saw them take one of the bigger waves of the day right on the head. That will get you in shape! I think it is session 5 or six for him and day 8 of sobriety. Stoked on that.
We had lunch at North End, we all got sandwiches. Pretty good.
This little video doesn't show you anything but at least it shows you how the weather was. It has been cloudy all day, with an occasional beam of sun breaking through. The water still pretty cold.
Saturday, March 28, 2009
Day 10 - Getting Tired...
The last time I had a surf streak going was the summer of 2007. I still cannot find the calendar where I kept a log of all of my surf sessions. Anyway, I may be off the mark here but I believe it was 126 days in a row. My goal is to beat that. What happened the last go around I really hit a wall about day 14. It feels like this may happen again. At first the exhilaration of starting a streak and gaining your skills back is enough to carry you through the first week or so, but then it just becomes a streak and that is where you get tested. Because of the exhilaration you have more energy but it goes away and combined with tired muscles you actually start to deteriorate a little bit. I am there now. However, I have to be honest I did go out drinking last night and that is certainly slowing me down quite a bit today.
Jason and I got it really good this morning, as we were on it at dawn. The waves were pretty good with offshore winds and actually some size. I initially brought my 10 foot longboard down to the parking lot and realized very quickly that I had chosen the wrong board. So I ran back up the hill and got my 6'2" short board. I surfed really pretty poorly all in all as I had a bit of a hangover. I had a few good turns and a decent cutback but that's about it. Jason rode my fun gun is he's just getting back in the water and he got some pretty good waves.
I'm experimenting with some video so this doesn't show much it just shows that it is a nice day and it is a long time after we surfed this video was taken at about 12:30 PM. One more thing to note is that if it seems like my writing style varies it is because sometimes I'm dictating into the blog utilizing voice recognition software. It seems to work pretty well but oftentimes I do not go back and proof what it has written so there are quite frequently typos.
Today is my brother's birthday and we are headed over to my mom's house to celebrate. It should be a good time! I'm looking forward to.
Jason and I got it really good this morning, as we were on it at dawn. The waves were pretty good with offshore winds and actually some size. I initially brought my 10 foot longboard down to the parking lot and realized very quickly that I had chosen the wrong board. So I ran back up the hill and got my 6'2" short board. I surfed really pretty poorly all in all as I had a bit of a hangover. I had a few good turns and a decent cutback but that's about it. Jason rode my fun gun is he's just getting back in the water and he got some pretty good waves.
I'm experimenting with some video so this doesn't show much it just shows that it is a nice day and it is a long time after we surfed this video was taken at about 12:30 PM. One more thing to note is that if it seems like my writing style varies it is because sometimes I'm dictating into the blog utilizing voice recognition software. It seems to work pretty well but oftentimes I do not go back and proof what it has written so there are quite frequently typos.
Today is my brother's birthday and we are headed over to my mom's house to celebrate. It should be a good time! I'm looking forward to.
Friday, March 27, 2009
On bus...
Day 9 - I'm back
Session 11
The waves were phenomenal. I just had a massive injection of dopamine... Ah, it feels so good to be addicted! I surfed about as well as I can at this stage in the game. My last wave was the best backside turn that I've completed probably since surfing in El Salvador last summer. A full bottom turn into a tail release that put me backwards coming down the face of the wave and then a rail grab to recover and continue down the waves. It's my "go-to" move on the backhand, feels good to get that one back! By surfing every day, I'm getting sharper. Time starts to slow down out there, distance become shorter, intuition starts to take over and the conscious starts to be the unconscious. Kind of like Neo in the Matrix! Ha! Just kidding - well, sort of. It is all relative, but that is OK because everything always is. I can be surfing as well as I ever had and then somebody will paddle out and do something that seems impossible. But that pushes you to try harder and surf more. Why, because your brain rewards you with a boost of dopamine followed by an IV drip of serotonin throughout the day.
What is coming natural for me this streak are the mechanics of the the bottom turn, which have been missing on my frontside for much of my surfing life. Proper shoulder alignment and arm rotation (Newport arm as we used to call it in high school - good surfers had it), are allowing me to complete turns instead of letting the wave push you around. Anyway, this time it feels all very natural probably because I have worked on it so much over the past few years. I'm not thinking about it. Jay has done it right for years, I'm just learning. I had the proper form on my backhand for years, but it is funny, at 36 I'm just learning my forehand... Until now, I've certainly relied more on strength than technique. It should look like something like this:
The waves were phenomenal. I just had a massive injection of dopamine... Ah, it feels so good to be addicted! I surfed about as well as I can at this stage in the game. My last wave was the best backside turn that I've completed probably since surfing in El Salvador last summer. A full bottom turn into a tail release that put me backwards coming down the face of the wave and then a rail grab to recover and continue down the waves. It's my "go-to" move on the backhand, feels good to get that one back! By surfing every day, I'm getting sharper. Time starts to slow down out there, distance become shorter, intuition starts to take over and the conscious starts to be the unconscious. Kind of like Neo in the Matrix! Ha! Just kidding - well, sort of. It is all relative, but that is OK because everything always is. I can be surfing as well as I ever had and then somebody will paddle out and do something that seems impossible. But that pushes you to try harder and surf more. Why, because your brain rewards you with a boost of dopamine followed by an IV drip of serotonin throughout the day.
What is coming natural for me this streak are the mechanics of the the bottom turn, which have been missing on my frontside for much of my surfing life. Proper shoulder alignment and arm rotation (Newport arm as we used to call it in high school - good surfers had it), are allowing me to complete turns instead of letting the wave push you around. Anyway, this time it feels all very natural probably because I have worked on it so much over the past few years. I'm not thinking about it. Jay has done it right for years, I'm just learning. I had the proper form on my backhand for years, but it is funny, at 36 I'm just learning my forehand... Until now, I've certainly relied more on strength than technique. It should look like something like this:
Day 9 - Prep
I'm going with my 6'2" compressor. For no reason I might add. I was not able to get Jason to rally at dawn. Oh well, another morning where I'm out there by myself. I was able to get a session of hot yoga and last night, we'll see how it goes today as I have been stiff in the last few days and my knee has been a little bit shaky. Actually two nights ago, I woke up with my knee basically immobilized from what I would guess was from some swelling. It's really tough breaking down that scar tissue!
Ah, to remember better days...
Thursday, March 26, 2009
Day 8 - Crazy figure 8's
Day 8
Session 10
Some fun ones on the fun gun. Amazing, when you do something every day you get better at it...
I could be wrong, but I believe that they used to call the standard cutback a figure 8 back in the 70s. Anyway, I had some really good figure eights today, even if they weren't called that back in the 70s, I'm calling them that now. Surfed the fun gun, but the waves had picked up a solid 1 to 2 feet from yesterday. The shape was the same as the session last night, but it was bigger. There were some very good peaks that I was able to complete full wraparounds on.
Anyway, looking forward to tomorrow as me and Jay are in the surf at dawn.
Day 8 - Prep
All right, today I'm just going to ride my longboard because I am tired and for no other reason. Let's see how it goes! We obviously know what the pitfalls are to changing this decision now... see my previous post: Day 7 - Cold and Offshore - Olson's Dilemma
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
Day 7 - Second Session
Tonight I got it pretty fun out there! I saw Tim out the water we got some waves. Checked out his new board, it is pretty cool. I had to surf again because it was glassy and the waves looked pretty fun even though they were still very weak. I did get a couple of decent waves had a couple of good cracks and a few good cutbacks. I'm in a hurry now so that's all I'm going to write tonight I'll post a picture from my camera phone. Oh yeah, when I was getting out of the water I saw Arnold, Brett, Marnie and another guy forget his name. Anyway they were Brett's house on the Strand drinking beers. The reason why I say such details like who I saw, is that I think it will set an anchor for me to remember back to this day when I look at this later.
I gotta say it wasn't a good day (had to use my AK)
Day 7 - Cold and Offshore - Olson's Dilemma
I actually thought it was going to be very good out there because the wind was so offshore and there were still some waves. However, it turns out that the waves were much weaker than I had expected as it had fallen off overnight dramatically and the offshore wind was a lot stronger than expected so the two combined made it almost impossible to get into a good wave. Anyway I struggled to get about six waves during a full session. It wasn't all that fun it was pretty painful but in the end I'm really glad I got out there, not just for the streak, it just starts the day off right. Now, I'm about to miss the bus and I got a get to it. I'll see if I can take a picture from my phone on when the bus.
It is really hard to practice my fundamentals when I cannot catch a lot of waves. In hindsight, I should have gone out there on my long board or the fun gun. At the last second, I reached for the compressor (6'2" ultra concave, double winged swallow - see picture from El Sal below). This happens a lot when I feel like I'm surfing better... I don't think it is smart though. I'm going to call this one "Olson's Folly", which is overestimating your surf skill and the effect your equipment has on your surfing. It can be summarized by a few examples such as: buying a board that is 1/2 inch thinner because you think you'll be able to turn better (and the kid in the surf shop tells you "Dude you'll rip on this one") or going with a super thin "Comp" leash because you think you'll notice the decreased drag. I also fell victim to what I'll call, "Olson's Dilemma". Olson's Dilemma refers to a thought process that is governed by the Jinx Framework*. So, Olson's Dilemma refers to the fact that in order to jinx something you have to believe it, which restricts the ability for the surfer to manipulate a situation**. Olson's Dilemma works in conjunction with Olson's Folly as a sister theory, because once you decide to go with certain equipment contingent upon what the conditions require (to perform immeasurably better), you unwittingly put the Jinx Framework into motion. The reason for this is that by making a conscious decision (by choosing what you think is the correct equipment), you automatically jinx the conditions because you truly "believe" it. So to to walk through the whole scenario in terms of this morning's example: I was thinking about riding my long board (10'0") but then I thought, "well, I'll just surf my fun gun (7'2") so that I can get some turns in" - Olson's Folly #1. I then proceeded to see a wave breaking as the dawn light gave me just enough to see the whitewash crumble. As I was heading out the door, based on my single observation (albeit bad observation), I decided to grab my 6'2" since I'm beginning to surf well again - Olson's Folly #2 - setting the Jinx Framework in motion. Olson's Dilemma refers to the inability to make a choice of equipment (based on unconfirmed conditions) as it set's the Jinx Framework in motion and will certainly cause the conditions to be suboptimal for the equipment you choose. How do you get around this? And why does it still happen, since we know it exists? The answer to the first question is to simply decide which equipment you will ride for the following day and do so based on an arbitrary decision like: "I'll ride that board tomorrow for no other reason than, I just like that board" and then stick with your decision no matter what. Why does it still happen? Because there is a great deal of "buyer's remorse" that occurs when you chose the wrong equipment (and it happens a lot). I really remember those sessions where I have chosen the wrong wetsuit and froze. The reason for choosing the wrong wetsuit is, invariably a result of Olson's Dilemma, which is then recursive in nature resulting in the dilemma happening again and again. The Jinx Framework also works exceptionally well in the field of investing (which, I observe every day). All of this is intertwined with my theory on "free lunches". I'll put that in an entry at a later date.
Just a final note: so that if somebody (besides me) ends up reading this someday: I have recently completed the reading of "A Short History of Nearly Everything" by Bill Bryson. It is a great book. I'm making light of how all kinds of discoveries are attributed to the supposed discoverer by utilizing the name of the discoverer to describe whatever it is. After reading that book, it is clear to me that many of the discoveries that bare an individuals name actually had been discovered by another previously and credit was give to the wrong person. Also, giving a ones name to a discovery, well I guess find it to be a bit pretentious. Darwin, is one example that comes to mind...
*The Jinx Framework discovered by early surfers refers to the fact that you can jinx a surf session by saying, "Wow, I have never seen this place so good! Today is going be perfect all day!". Under this scenario, by the time you get out in the water, either the wind will have shifted causing deterioration in the surf, a crowd of people will have arrived (mostly frothing teenagers or a pro longboard team of women-which has happened to me) or a meteor will hit earth that dwarfs the one that ended the Cretaceous period and the existence of dinosaurs. The Jinx Frameworks exists everywhere in life, not just surfing.
**It is believed that surfers have long traveled to the East, to search for an understanding of the meditation practices (or just good ganja-I've heard it works the same as meditation) in order to try to utilize the jinx framework against itself. The thought process is that through meditation it is possible to change what you truly believe allowing for the existence of the coveted "Opposite Jinx", which allows one to control the future. If we are able to control this at some point, it will dwarf the theory of relativity and as well as all other scientific discovery up to this point combined. This has been replicated in labs but we are yet to verify its existence in practice.
It is really hard to practice my fundamentals when I cannot catch a lot of waves. In hindsight, I should have gone out there on my long board or the fun gun. At the last second, I reached for the compressor (6'2" ultra concave, double winged swallow - see picture from El Sal below). This happens a lot when I feel like I'm surfing better... I don't think it is smart though. I'm going to call this one "Olson's Folly", which is overestimating your surf skill and the effect your equipment has on your surfing. It can be summarized by a few examples such as: buying a board that is 1/2 inch thinner because you think you'll be able to turn better (and the kid in the surf shop tells you "Dude you'll rip on this one") or going with a super thin "Comp" leash because you think you'll notice the decreased drag. I also fell victim to what I'll call, "Olson's Dilemma". Olson's Dilemma refers to a thought process that is governed by the Jinx Framework*. So, Olson's Dilemma refers to the fact that in order to jinx something you have to believe it, which restricts the ability for the surfer to manipulate a situation**. Olson's Dilemma works in conjunction with Olson's Folly as a sister theory, because once you decide to go with certain equipment contingent upon what the conditions require (to perform immeasurably better), you unwittingly put the Jinx Framework into motion. The reason for this is that by making a conscious decision (by choosing what you think is the correct equipment), you automatically jinx the conditions because you truly "believe" it. So to to walk through the whole scenario in terms of this morning's example: I was thinking about riding my long board (10'0") but then I thought, "well, I'll just surf my fun gun (7'2") so that I can get some turns in" - Olson's Folly #1. I then proceeded to see a wave breaking as the dawn light gave me just enough to see the whitewash crumble. As I was heading out the door, based on my single observation (albeit bad observation), I decided to grab my 6'2" since I'm beginning to surf well again - Olson's Folly #2 - setting the Jinx Framework in motion. Olson's Dilemma refers to the inability to make a choice of equipment (based on unconfirmed conditions) as it set's the Jinx Framework in motion and will certainly cause the conditions to be suboptimal for the equipment you choose. How do you get around this? And why does it still happen, since we know it exists? The answer to the first question is to simply decide which equipment you will ride for the following day and do so based on an arbitrary decision like: "I'll ride that board tomorrow for no other reason than, I just like that board" and then stick with your decision no matter what. Why does it still happen? Because there is a great deal of "buyer's remorse" that occurs when you chose the wrong equipment (and it happens a lot). I really remember those sessions where I have chosen the wrong wetsuit and froze. The reason for choosing the wrong wetsuit is, invariably a result of Olson's Dilemma, which is then recursive in nature resulting in the dilemma happening again and again. The Jinx Framework also works exceptionally well in the field of investing (which, I observe every day). All of this is intertwined with my theory on "free lunches". I'll put that in an entry at a later date.
Just a final note: so that if somebody (besides me) ends up reading this someday: I have recently completed the reading of "A Short History of Nearly Everything" by Bill Bryson. It is a great book. I'm making light of how all kinds of discoveries are attributed to the supposed discoverer by utilizing the name of the discoverer to describe whatever it is. After reading that book, it is clear to me that many of the discoveries that bare an individuals name actually had been discovered by another previously and credit was give to the wrong person. Also, giving a ones name to a discovery, well I guess find it to be a bit pretentious. Darwin, is one example that comes to mind...
*The Jinx Framework discovered by early surfers refers to the fact that you can jinx a surf session by saying, "Wow, I have never seen this place so good! Today is going be perfect all day!". Under this scenario, by the time you get out in the water, either the wind will have shifted causing deterioration in the surf, a crowd of people will have arrived (mostly frothing teenagers or a pro longboard team of women-which has happened to me) or a meteor will hit earth that dwarfs the one that ended the Cretaceous period and the existence of dinosaurs. The Jinx Frameworks exists everywhere in life, not just surfing.
**It is believed that surfers have long traveled to the East, to search for an understanding of the meditation practices (or just good ganja-I've heard it works the same as meditation) in order to try to utilize the jinx framework against itself. The thought process is that through meditation it is possible to change what you truly believe allowing for the existence of the coveted "Opposite Jinx", which allows one to control the future. If we are able to control this at some point, it will dwarf the theory of relativity and as well as all other scientific discovery up to this point combined. This has been replicated in labs but we are yet to verify its existence in practice.
Day 7 Prep
I'm feeling really slow right now. I think all the surfing and the hot yoga has gotten to me. The waves are really small right now but the conditions are good. I'm having trouble deciding which board to take out there. I think I'm going to go with the 7'2" fun gun. Especially given that I'm tired and sore. It looks like it's clear and offshore just about knee to waist high.
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Day 6 (Continued)
Managed to make it to yoga and then get another session in. I'm pretty tired now, but this is my first double session of the streak. I'm pretty happy about that. I had a good time out there even though the waves didn't end up being very good. It was really sloppy winds while, kind of a standard windy summer afternoon even though it is not summer yet., I had some good waves and I think that I'm getting used to the compressor. Tomorrow will be a week! I'm looking forward to getting that under my belt. Things are starting to come more natural, my cutback is starting to come back and my timing is slowly but surely falling into line. However, my strength is not in my flexibility is going to require a lot of work.
Day 6 (feels like 60)
Today we finally had some good weather and good waves. I surfed my small wave board, the compressor and I have to admit it was pretty awkward. The board has such a tight turning radius that my timing was really off. I felt like a kook out there! No, actually I was a kook out there. However, I did get a couple of good waves that I was able to crank a few hard turns on. In particular I had one front side wave where I was able the bottom turn and release my tail off the top. It felt so good! I also had one backside wave where I did a tail slide, but it was pretty sketchy. Reminded me of a k-59 in El Sal turn! You know the one... Ah K-59...
My back was struggling to support me after doing yoga yesterday for the first time in a long time. Now the question is going to be whether or not this is going to be my first double session day or is it going to be a yoga night? Maybe both...
My back was struggling to support me after doing yoga yesterday for the first time in a long time. Now the question is going to be whether or not this is going to be my first double session day or is it going to be a yoga night? Maybe both...
Day 6 - Prep
I finally did yoga last night! But, my back is not feeling that great after doing it since it has been so long since I've done it. Anyway, last night as I was going to yoga the wind went offshore! The waves looked good and I probably should have surfed. However, the wind is still offshore I will have to see if there are waves still -- getting ready to head out.
Monday, March 23, 2009
Appropriate Quote for my Surf Streak
The irony of commitment is that it’s deeply liberating — in work, in play, in love. The act frees you from the tyranny of your internal critic, from the fear that likes to dress itself up and parade around as rational hesitation. To commit is to remove your head as the barrier to your life. (a quote from The Way I See It #76, Starbucks Coffee) - Anne Morriss
Loyal Following...
So now that I have a loyal following and I'm well on my way to becoming a well-known blogger (see "Crazy windy day..." on March 22, 2009 -- you have to look at the comments to see my loyal following (Michael)), I really have to step up my content on the site. Even though I'm getting increasing pressure from my following (Michael), to sell out, I am promising now to all my faithful readers that I will not sell out and become another commercial casualty of the blogosphere. I will remain committed to the goal of simply documenting everyday that I surf so that I can go back and look at it at some point later in my life. Alright that's all too serious and I’m just going have a good time to put up whatever I think about putting up and there, it is just a journal really. I just had to make fun of the first person to comment on my blog. Do me a favor and click on the banner ads when they appear…
Day 5 – My 267 written words (the 1000 word summary below is better though)
With all the wind the water has become even more frigid and ice cream headaches were the norm out there. Maybe I should feel pretty privileged to be able to surf arguably the most popular surf spot in Los Angeles (as measured by crowdedness) all by myself! Unfortunately it was not "getting it good" this morning. I took out my 6'8" Indo Board in lieu of my 7'2" fun gun this morning for two reasons. One, I think that my paddling is getting better so I'm able to get into waves a little bit easier now and two, I needed to be able to duck dive as there were a lot of waves and a lot of water moving out there. Wow! It was cold out there. I ended up catching five waves again, surpassing my needed three waves by two! And I know, it is a little bit unbelievable but I did manage to get a left that I unloaded on front side. That's all I need to get me through the day and look forward to surfing tomorrow. I cannot believe that I had fun out there! I felt like a hard-core New England surfer (or a Seattle one -- like my friend Tony was), but I still had a good time and I can't wait for tomorrow! The streak is still too new to get broken right now and today was a novelty, I don't know how I would react at day 40 or 50 at this point. We'll see...
Day 5 - that's the problem...
So this is a problem! I just went and looked at it and there are side-shore whitecaps not to mention that it is about as cold as it can get! The real problem here is, answering the following question: Do I wait until this afternoon when it is warmer but there is a real chance that the conditions could be even worse or do I just get out there and get my three waves and come in so that I can check off the box today?I'm always anxious all day if I don't get a surf in during the morning on the streak. I think I'll just suit up and see what happens.
Day 5 - the wind hasn't stopped...
I cannot see the waves, but I'm guessing they are not good. There is still about 15 mile an hour sustained winds blowing it looks like from the north which will be side offshore if it is. We'll see! I have found that often times the best tactic is to simply put on your wetsuit start walking down the beach and then figure out if you can surf or not. The result, more often times than not you'll just paddle out to try to get your three waves. But this time, I don't know just to be clear the wind was very strong last night my power was out for most of the evening because of it. But then again El Porto is a bit like the Nicaragua (my trip to Nicaragua the power was out about 1/2 the time) of Southern California where the power just intermittently goes out caught three of four times a year. I'm not sure why because we live right next to 2 powerplants it would seem that we could get a direct feed from the power plant but apparently that's not the case.
Update on my business: so I ordered my supercomputer yesterday and I should be up and running as a video editor here shortly!
Sunday, March 22, 2009
Crazy windy day...
swell to be had in the morning.
Day 4 - No easy feat
Today was no easy feat for sure. It had just finished raining and as I was walking down the beach the wind was picking up. I would say that 15 to 20 miles an hour is a conservative estimate. The water was cold and there were no other surfers in sight. It was pretty much downright miserable. However, I did get to more waves than my goal, which was three waves just to log a session. So I got five waves and actually did get a cou
ple of pretty nice turns in. No matter what it seems to happen that way.What else is going on today? I'm in the process of buying a new computer so that I can start my video editing business. I just can't seem to pull the trigger.
My arms are pretty sore from yesterday, but I'm feeling good about surfing everyday. I can't believe that I'm happy about surfing today as the conditions are as bad as they can get, but that's just how surfing is. The best reason for surfing is no reason at all and my commitment to beat my prior record of consecutive days is plenty of reason for me.
Victory at sea and rainy - Day 4 Prep
This is certainly the biggest test as of yet. I woke up and it was raining and 15 to 20 mile an hour winds. It looks like shit out there. I am almost certain that there is not another surfer out in the water. But what can I do? I'm suited up and heading out there now. hopefully I can get some pictures of how shitty it is.
I guess that this is the problem with starting a streak while it is still winter...
I guess that this is the problem with starting a streak while it is still winter...
Saturday, March 21, 2009
Day 3
The weather is ugly again. Hopefully, I'll post a picture when I go to the liquor store. But, today the waves were fun. I started out at 40th St. and then paddled down towards Rosecrans. The sandbar at 40th St. was not working, there was just too much water on it. When I went over to Rosecrans, I caught some really good waves. I had one really good last where I did a solid cut back on the fun gun and worked it to the inside. My wave of the day however was a right that was pretty racy and gave me the opportunity to for two solid turns. So fun! My skills are coming back, but it could take some time for me to get back into shape. However, the waves were very small, I would put them in the knee to waist high range. Furthermore, the tide was really high so you really had to sit right on the sandbar to get away that would break. Supposedly there are going to be some waves tomorrow but it might rain.
I just checked my ESPN bracket and I'm in the lead! It is so funny, because it is so random as I just picked all of the favorites. Anyway, I doubt it will last but it's funny in the interim.
This isn't easy. I am highly certain that I would not have surfed today if it were not for my new streak. Anyway, I know from experience that the worst is yet to come. I know that somewhere around two weeks I will hit a wall as I did last time.
I just checked my ESPN bracket and I'm in the lead! It is so funny, because it is so random as I just picked all of the favorites. Anyway, I doubt it will last but it's funny in the interim.
This isn't easy. I am highly certain that I would not have surfed today if it were not for my new streak. Anyway, I know from experience that the worst is yet to come. I know that somewhere around two weeks I will hit a wall as I did last time.
Friday, March 20, 2009
Ugly Day 2
Day 2 Prep
Not feeling all that flash given the Laker game last night... Ramping up to get out there though to get day 2 outtaway. My buddy just had his second child (yesterday I think), really stoked for him, but its going to be one more ripper to look out for when I'm geriatric. Congratulations Tom!
I'm still on the fun gun. Not sure how long that will last. It's just a matter of time before get back to the compressor, but I have to have some paddle before you do that not to mention some flexibility.
Anyway, I'm not sure what the conditions are like today or if there are any waves but I have to admit that it is very liberating to know that I'm in the surf everyday, there isn't even a question about it. It will be a matter of time before I'm back into the surf thing entirely.
Oh yeah, the Lakers won.
Thursday, March 19, 2009
Day 1 (Continued)
Day one, ended up being much easier than expected. The real difficulty will probably come around day 14 or so when all of the excitement wears off and then it just becomes a chore. Anyway, I got some really fun waves even though my arms were dead and my legs could barely support me it still ended up being fun. Just like I remember from the last streak I did, I really don't remember a day where I regretted going out in the water. It's more a problem of just getting out of the water. One other thing that I noted today is that the El Porto attitude still exists and it is as strong as ever, some things will never change.
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