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What to do? What to do. I really don't want to surf this morning, but I think I is going to rain and get bigger so I should go get 3 I guess. It is so shitty.

13/11 - Mike Olson please check in for your heat!

The contest organizers really screwed this one up. First of all they didn't tell me that I was in the 7:15 heat so I was struggling to get my wetsuit on at 7:13. Secondly, I have no idea why they decided to do a living room start! So that's the situation, the horn rings at 7:15 and I have to get 3 waves by 7:30. Run down the hill and it's on! Of course it was way bigger than yesterday and super consistent so by the time I got in position it was 7:21. 9 min to get 3 waves... I won my heat.

It was good!!! Shit, that always happens. It was good and hardly anyone out because it is onday and I only have time for 3 waves. Live and never learn is my saying.

New Favorite Name on Tour:
Was - Jihad Khodr
Now is - Wiggolly Dantas
Both brazies.

The Nice Day... 12/10

Got 4 waves. It was about 80 degrees on the beach with people
everywhere. There were a few waves to be had but I hadn't found them.

11/9 - Fun at turtles ok at porto

Surfed porto int he morning yesterday, I got a few, just not the one I wanted.  Then me and Jay drove down to my Encinitas for my brothers b-day party.  I got some good ones at turtles!  So fun to surf a reef after tons of beach break.  You feel like everything slows down.  I had one that I got a hold of for 3 shwacks.  It has been a long time for me to do that...  Back to shit beach break, oh well, I really think the discipline in hard to surf stuff helps my surfing even if it isn't as fun.

9/8 - Changing order up

It is 9 sessions in 8 days.  That makes more sense.  I headed out yesterday in the arvo and got a few.  Saw Bret out there and he said it was going to shut down.  He was right, it shut down, I got cold and caught a crappy one in.  I surfed basically by myself.  Had a few good ones early though.  Logged seshy!

Vocabulary Lesson - 8/8

Shithouse [shit-hous]

-adjective

1. When the surf generally sucks

2. When anything generally sucks

"This morning the waves were shithouse, even though I caught a few all the way to the inside"

This morning it was shithouse, I got up and thought it was offshore so I ran down to the waters edge in the dark. It was then I realized that it was side shore at about 10mph and there was a pretty good bump/lump on the water. I was able to surf for more than an hour, but I did not catch much.

Going Back to Tavi!!!

Two weeks of paradise!

Not that flash today.

Living the Dream - 7/7

Surfed this morning - I'll admit, it was a forced effort.  There were some waves however, but I only had time for to catch 4 because I woke up late.  Only one real wave where I had 2 turns on it.  It felt good.  I'm looking forward to a good long session where I don't have to get out of the water at a set time.

 

Living the Dream - Erik Furuholmen

I was joking when I said Jay you should enter that contest, but it looks like a dude that we surf with in the WSA did.  He got a 1.45 in the round of 128 for the Vans Pier Classic at HB.  Does that mean he's pro?  Do we need to file a formal protest?  Jay do you think you could get better than a 1.45?

That Stupid Guy...

I wish that I could take credit for the name, but my neighbor gave it to me.  She is the sweetest little old lady (80+).  But, one weekday she didn't know that I was home and I had just put the trashcans away (my trashcans – not hers), I admit they were a little mixed up.  Anyway, she had to go fix them (obsessive or something).  While she was arranging them to her liking, she got all angry and yelled, "That stupid guy!".   Sweet old lady, yeah right!  So funny.

6/6 Days/Sessions

Starting to feel it again. Getting that confidence back. Oh yeah. Late drop, throw it on edge pull in high and tight. It is the little nuances that you don't think about that make the difference. When pulling into a barrel, the tendency is to just want to stand there. What I have found is that if pull under and go as high as possible in the barrel and make a slight adjustment (turning down the face of the wave) you can pick up just enough speed and tuck just enough to fit in and make it out. I did this in the morning. Sick barrel - came out clean. Then I found another one that I back-doored. A kid was right in front of me duck diving, so I either had to pull it off or we would be a tangled mess on the inside. Same high-and-tight move. Although I did not make it out of this one, I fit in perfectly and adjusted along the way to get some crazy travel time. I pulled in about 15 yards before the kid and when I fell, I came up about 15 yards on the other side of the kid. So I was in there for about 30 yards - a pretty good distance for a barrel at my home break. The kid immediately threw his hands up and hooted for me. That will make your session, it did mine. Of course, I had to play it off, but I was stoked!

Eddie Means offshore - 5/5

Yeah Yeah.  So good out there today.  Had a stand-up (maybe a little crouched) barrel but got pinched.  I heard there was going to be a Catalina eddie today.  It is the time of the year for those to start and what that means for me is offshores.  I love it.  3 and 3 is where I stand, I need a couple double session days to give me a bit of a buffer.  Jay is supposed to be doing the streak with me, not sure if he is.  I'm really at 5 and 5 because I started last Friday and I also surfed Saturday in Huntington, so screw it I'm using the 5/5 number.

2-2-22

2 days, 2 sessions on the 22nd.

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Wierd this morning. Shallow sand bars, pretty solid out there though. Had wrong board. Caught a wave going out to sea, cuz it broke on the shallow sand bar. Should've stood up - would've been a first.