Um calculating... Day 92 - Yesterday

So I have to admit, it has been a little tough to get in the water after 2 weeks in Tavi. My mind is running wild after my travels over the last month or so. First Nica and then Tavi. During this streak, I've had 7 + 15 or 22 days of surf in foreign waters. In world class waves, what an experience!!! Now what? More surfing at home, more loving life for what it gives me. It gives me a lot! I'm so fortunate, shooting from the hip all the time and hitting my mark enough to keep it spicy.

Yesterday, I held off surfing until the last moment. I got out there at about 7pm with the intention that I'd just get 3 waves. The waves were bad, but I found myself not getting out after my 3 wave quota was met. I stayed and surfed until about 8pm or so. I found myself enjoying the challenge of the 1 to 2 foot dirty wind slop peaks. A lot of people complain about the quality of waves. I'm one of those people sometimes. But come on! I've surfed for 92 days straight! Are you kidding me? How is that grounds for complaints? If I can do it, anyone can. Excuses will certainly stop most people as they try and stop me everyday. In the end commitment supercedes all, commitment and integrity lead to fulfillment. I'm so stoked! Stoked on life! My next chapter in life will be governed by the prior principle. To be continued...

I still need to get out there today. I could not wake up this morning for some reason. Next week, I'll start back in the gym - not crazy - just at maintenance levels.

One more point. My homey just made it to 90 days of sobriety today. I'm so stoked and proud of him. 90 days ago, the Vegas over/under line would have been a week on the bro, but now he has a new job, new attitude, new lease on life. The gutter is where he was headed but the sky is the limit now. So stoked. It is my opinion that we tend to gravitate our conversations towards the negatives in life, complaining about this or that, political blunderings, what is going to happen if the economy doesn't get better, whatever. But also just an opinion, these success story's like Jay's are where life lives. It is why we live, for the positives. I have to admit, I'm transforming more now than I ever have. I'm embracing these successes and using them for inspiration. Call it what you will, fulfillment or whatever but the end result is that I'm happier than I ever have been and I'm really not trying to get anywhere. I'm here now and it is perfect. I'll be somewhere else in the future and that will be just as perfect as it is now. Wherever that is...

The streak still lives!

I haven't surfed yet today because of an early meeting, but I returned from Tavarua on Saturday and got our there. A little weird, to surf SoCal after 15 straight days surfing some of the best lefts on the planet. Trying to go right was funny, my body just could not do it. I wonder how many waves I caught in Tavarua? I wonder how much tube time I racked up? I wonder how much distance I covered? I wonder why I'm not living the dream now. I wonder a lot of things these days.

I'll have to calculate the my streak later on. I have a lot to catch up on here at work! I didn't know that I would stay 2 weeks! So many stories.